The Horseshoe of the Black Cuillin is not only the center of attention for would-be mountaineers on the island of Skye, but maybe Britain, as well. Making a trip to the ancestral home of Scotland – maybe the first of my clan since the early 18th century – I decided to include a little walking with the history on my first venture into Scottish mountains.

Skye is a bit north of the islands of my clan – Mull, Islay. Vikings and the clan Macleod and MacDonald figure strongly in the histories here. The island has become a bit of tourist destination with its wild beauty and Celtic traditions. “Winged Island”, “Isle of Clouds” are two interpretations of the original meaning of Skye. The latter version showed up in force during my visit.

SLIGACHAN

“Sligachan” is not a name tripping easily off the tongue. What it is is the original ‘civilized’ base camp for those interested in climbing up into the Black Cuillin. The hotel dates to 1830 and even features a brewery – appropriately Cuillin Brewery. For those more outdoors inclined, there is also a campground, but I opted for old-style luxury. That was a good move considering it rained three of the four days I was here. And when I say rain, I am talking about the all-day variety.

What is very convenient about Sligachan is you can reach it on a bus with only one transfer – in Fort William – from Glasgow Airport. I spent the better part of three weeks in Scotland and only drove a couple days doing the rest of the trip on public transport. It is a bit slower, for sure. The trip from the airport to Sligachan took most of the day. But the roads are narrow leading north from Glasgow and it had been awhile since I had driven on the wrong side of the road.

THE BLACK CUILLIN HORSESHOE OF SKYE

Twelve of Scotland’s 282 Munros are located in this small range rising to the south of Sligachan. A Munro is a peak rising above 3,000 feet. Make a list of anything and there will be people ticking off the list. So, it is also with Munro-baggers. Here, on Skye, the most famous of the Munros is undoubtedly the Inaccessible Pinnacle of Sgùrr Dearg or the In Pin.

There are two ranges with the name of Cuillin, the Black Cuillin and the Red Cuillin found just to the east. The peaks of the Red Cuillin are rounder and easier to climb. The Black Cullin peaks form a jagged horseshoe which is the remains of a volcano stretching back 60 million years. Climbers have been coming here since at least the 19th century to try the skills on the peaks. Most of the peaks are scrambles requiring freedom of fear of heights and the ability to use your hands to help on occasion. Then others, like the In Pin, should include rope gear.

WALKING ON TOP OF THE HORSESHOE

Another interesting variation on seeing the Black Cuillin Horseshoe of Skye is to traverse the ridge on top. There are two variations on this theme. A first traverse is to start from sea level at Glen Brittle on the west side of the Cuillin to the bar at Sligachan. This walk covers about seven miles but takes 15-20 hours to complete. The second version is the Greater Traverse extending the walk further to the east to account for all twelve of the Munros. “Full Scottish conditions” would be a traverse of the Cuillin amidst horrible winter conditions. Such a traverse is thought to be the ultimate in mountaineering, but that is not why I go up high.

EASING MY WAY UP – BRUACH NA FRITHE

Bruach na Frithe is a Munro topping out at 3,142 feet. It is a fairly easy scramble, really just a steep walk. The views are splendid from the top and you can easily make a day of it from Sligachan. Distance covered is about 8.5 miles with a gain of 2,754 vertical feet.

You start out from the hotel and walk west along a road passing a hut maintained for the local Scottish Mountain Rescue. Soon you are on a stony path – hopefully the midges have not woken up yet – going along the Allt Dearg Mor, a small rambling brook – “burn” here. A couple miles out, a prominent path goes off to the left to ascend the valley – “Corrie” – to the ridge above. Keep the creek to your left as you go up the Fionn Choire.

ON TOP OF THE BLACK HORSESHOE

The walk continues upward and the views over to the northern reaches of Skye increase. Look carefully and you can see the pinnacles of Storr. As you climb, the path gets rockier but is well worn. Finally you reach the ridge – Bealach nan Lice – after a mile and a half where another well worn path runs. Walk west directly for Bruach na Frithe, though I recommend a short eastern detour to see the awesome tooth of Am Basteir up close. Am Basteir looks like a difficult rock climb which it indeed is from this side. Voices can be heard from the top meaning an easier way to the top exists – there is.

Bruach nan Frithe has a good-sized place to rest and take in the views over the Black Cuillin of Skye. The peaks are all in view from here as is most of the island. I had the peak to myself, but appearances can be deceiving. There were a lot of people’s voices heard up here along the ridges as clouds misted in and out of the peaks.

SIDETRIP

You can walk back taking the northwestern ridge off the peak to make a little loop of your walk. Seeing a pair of walkers atop another nearby peak, I chose to retrace my steps along the ridge. Then a quick scramble to their peak, Sgùrr na Fionn Choire, a Munro Top and not a real Munro. “Top” being a subsidiary peak or shoulder, but “Munro” signifying over 3,000 feet – 3,071 to be exact in this case. You have to use your hands here, though the going is not too hard. The views of Am Basteir’s south side are well worth the scramble.

TIME FOR A BEER

The return to Sligachan was fairly anticlimactic. You drop off the ridge and it is a matter of one foot after the other. By the time I was back to the hotel, the crest of the Black Cuillin of Skye was totally encased in clouds. It rained the entire next day.