FORT ROSECRANS – HEROES’ VALHALLA IN THE MODERN DAY

Monument to the men who lost their lives in the 1905 boiler explosion. Her crew men lie with the low granite enclosure.
Monument to the men who lost their lives in the 1905 boiler explosion. Her crew men lie with the low granite enclosure.

Stories abound in cemeteries with military cemeteries no exception partly because of all the documentation available. Fort Rosecrans National Cemetery became one of seven national cemeteries established -1934-1939 – between the two World Wars. An aging population of veterans added to the need in light of available grave space in existing national cemeteries. Veterans’ benefits included burial space. On the Pacific Coast, at the time of establishment of the cemetery here, only one national cemetery existed in San Francisco. Army and Navy officials tried earlier to change the post cemetery at Fort Rosecrans as a national cemetery only to have the Department of War turn them down. The massive expansion of the military during World War I changed the situation dramatically.

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PUPFISH – TRIAL BY FIRE FOR THE RAREST OF FISH

Formerly thought extinct, the Shoshone Pupfish are alive and well within the refuge pond in Shoshone, California.
Formerly thought extinct, the Shoshone Pupfish are alive and well within the refuge pond in Shoshone, California.

What to do in Las Vegas when the sensory impact of the Strip begins to wane? Glitz and glamor are all on conspicuous display as fountains dance in the face of ever disappointing water stores behind nearby Hoover Dam. Visiting cities in the American Southwest can be a jarring experience in water terms – golf courses and man-made party boat lakes speckle the seemingly never-ending urban sprawl.

Away from the lights, noise and costs of the Strip exist a plethora of outdoor activities – Hoover Dam, Lake Mead, Red Rocks, Valley of Fire, Mt. Charleston but a few options. Today’s post concentrates on some of the unique species of life to be found in the various oasis springs found 1-2 hours west of Vegas among the desert basin area of the Amargosa Valley. In some of these springs, various species of pupfish live, their only home in the world. These fish include some of the rarest found today. The fish, like other animals and plants found around the oases, are survivors. One has to, in order to survive the climate and environment in which they call “home”.

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CRANBERRIES – A LITTLE MAGIC FROM THE LEFT COAST

Immature berries ripen under the summer skies on the Long Beach Peninsula.
Immature berries ripen under the summer skies on the Long Beach Peninsula.

Cranberries have slowly pushed onto the food and drink stage beyond the Thanksgiving dinner table. The little edible berries probably will not replace other berry cousins like blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, huckleberries or even currants anytime soon as mouthwatering magic anytime soon. That said, the cranberry industry has helped pushed the tart treats beyond the side helpings next to the late November turkey dinners, where the little berries gain much of their fame from.

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NIELSON TOWER REINCARNATED AS THE BLACKBIRD – MANILA’S FIRST AIRPORT

Dining al fresco at the Blackbird on the old tarmac of the Nielson Tower.
Dining al fresco at the Blackbird on the old tarmac of the Nielson Tower.

Deep in the heart of the high rises of Manila’s Makati district sits the restored Nielson Tower and air control center for the first center for commercial aviation in Manila. Nielson Airfield came about from the desire of Laurie Nielson who established the airfield along with an aviation school here on land leased from the Ayala family in 1937.

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REVISTING BYGONE AGE OF THE SPANISH GALLEON TRADING WORLD

Manila galleon setting out across the Pacific.
Manila galleon setting out across the Pacific.

A recent trip took me to La Palma in the Canary Islands off the northwestern coast of Africa.  At one point, La Palma (also known as La Isla Bonita – the Beautiful Island) served as an important trading post on the way from Spain to the New World. Santa Cruz de la Palma, founded in the spring of 1493, is a pretty little town on the northeastern side of the steeply rising island. A life-sized model of Christopher Columbus’ Santa Maria located in the town center serves as the unique maritime museum for the town. Evidence of the once flourishing Spanish galleon trade.

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FISH HATCHERY – TRYING TO MAKE UP FOR LOST GROUND

Chinook salmon circling about in a lower holding pond at the Bonneville Fish Hatchery.
Chinook salmon circling about in a lower holding pond at the Bonneville Fish Hatchery.

In the western United States, when something good gets discovered, it seems nothing better to do than to rush to deplete the good – gold, trees, … salmon. Gold is mined many times at the cost of whatever lived in the area before. Trees, centuries of age, swept away, sometimes replanted, sometimes not, always with ecological cost. In the case of salmon, former runs of billions of salmon first suffered from overfishing, taken to extremes. To finish off the magnificent earlier runs, primeval rivers dammed ending the prehistoric runs. Fish hatchery to the rescue

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GORGE(OUS) VIEWS – MAJESTY OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE

Magnificent viewpoint near Nesika Lodge looking upstream towards Bonneville Dam.
Magnificent viewpoint near Nesika Lodge looking upstream towards Bonneville Dam. One of the many spectacular views to be found within the Columbia River Gorge.

The Columbia River Gorge is one of the natural highlights of the Pacific Northwest. Only the Columbia River penetrates through the Cascade Mountain range and does so in a magnificent manner. Long an important transportation corridor whether rail, old highways, new freeways, canoes or flatboats. Waterfalls tend to bring the tourists to the Gorge along with the views of the immense canyon from spots like Crown Point on the Historic Columbia River Highway.  But trails take you to the top of many other vista points as magical as those at the Vista House.  Here are a few of my personal favorite Gorge views.  Maybe you have others.

In no particular order with regard to personal preference, I present them from west to east.

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DOBERDO – HUNGARIAN SACRIFICE RECAPTURED IN THE KRAS

Headstone in the Austro-Hungarian military cemetery in Bovec, Slovenia bedecked with a faded Hungarian tri-colored ribbon.
Headstone in the Austro-Hungarian military cemetery in Bovec, Slovenia bedecked with a faded Hungarian tri-colored ribbon similar to graves in cemeteries in Doberdo.

In 2018, as part of centenary observances of World War 1, a monument unveiled atFiume Road Graveyard in Budapest. This became the first national memorial erected commemorating the efforts Hungarians undertook during the Great War. Government officials noted the memorial was in line with a fundamental theme of the nation: to restore historical continuity broken during the Nazi and Communist occupations.

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CRUISING INTO THE MAGIC OF BAYS OF KOTOR

Sunset over the Bays of Kotor - the mountain of Vrmac looms darkly in the middle.
Sunset over the Bays of Kotor – the mountain of Vrmac looms darkly in the middle.

In the past, I have not been a big fan of vacationing on huge cruise ships. A few friends and I watched from the shore of Glacier Bay as cruise ship after cruise ship made their way up the large fjord. We were happy experiencing the wilderness of one of the America’s most magnificent national parks on a more personal scale. Just us and the grizzly bears. Could the Bays of Kotor change that feeling?

Another time, I stayed at a hotel in Kusadsi for almost a week a few years ago. Every day brought several behemoths to dock at the waterfront. Buses lined up for the inevitable bus pilgrimage to nearby Ephesus. And then, at sunset, the giant ships would set sail into the sunset for their next day’s destination – Bodrum, Mykonos, Santorini, Istanbul. Again, I was happy to be staying behind. This year, I bit the bullet joining a cruise taking in the Adriatic and western Mediterranean. The cruise turned out very enjoyable.  The highlight, the slow entry into the wondrous fjord system making up the Bocche di Cattaro, known locally as the Boka Kotorska or simply, the Magic of Kotor.

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TRANSATLANTIC JOURNEY REVEALS MAGIC IN THE AIR

Late Fall sunshine on the east Greenland coast seen on a transatlantic flight from Frankfurt to Seattle.

After just returning from a series of eye clinics in Albania, I will share a few thoughts on the sights seen outside the window from over 34,000 feet as I made my way back on a long transatlantic sojourn. This was the second set of clinics I have worked in Albania.

My transatlantic journey began too early at a crowded Nënë Tereza Airport just to the northwest of Tirana. The first of three flights involved in my return to Oregon was scheduled for 0600. Another colleague was flying to Rome at 0530, so we shared a cab. We left our hotel out in the western Albanian countryside near Durrës at 0330. This coming after our last day of clinics. In an unheated building, we saw over 700 patients in Kukës, Albania, three hours north of where we were staying close to the border with Kosovo.

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