CERJE – SLOVENIA AND ITS HISTORY DEFINED IN TOWERING FASHION

The tower atop Cerje.
The tower atop Cerje.

To better understand the eleven Italian offensives of World War One on the lower Isonzo River, two highpoints should be among your tour stops – Monte San Michele (for the first six offensives) and Cerje (for the rest).  Atop the tower built on Cerje, one has a view over most of the Isonzo battlefields from Sabotin-Monte Santo to the final Austrian lines atop Monte Ermada.  The vastness of the Carso-Kras region lays out at your fingertips.  The Adriatic Sea glints in the distance to the southeast while the snowcapped Julians shine to the north.

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LUKNJA – MAGIC UNVEILED WALKING IN THE SHADOW OF TRIGLAV.

The majestic North Face of Triglav towering above the upper Vrata Valley.

Triglav is the mountain defining Slovenia.  The three-headed mountain – Triglav means three heads – is so beloved, it takes center stage on the nation’s flag (Quick aside – Slovenia is one of eight countries with mountains on their flags and one of three featuring a three headed peak –San Marino and Slovakia are the other two.  Costa Rica has three peaks on its flag, but they are separate mountains, actually representing different mountain chains, Slovakia’s three bumps also represent three separate chains.). A hike to Luknja in the shadow of the giant mountain can unveil magic on an incredible scale at nor too hard a physical cost, not always an easy sale on Slovene mountain trails.

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KARAVANKE – FORGOTTEN MOUNTAINS OF SLOVENIA

Mountain haze shared with cows atop Dovška Baba with Visoki Kurjek ahead on the Karavanke crest

The geography of Slovenia’s greatest mountain range, the Julian Alps is a confused mess. Mapmakers are much more at home with the Karavanke.  This chain extends for about 75 miles – 120 kilometers – in a west to east fashion geographically separating the Drava and Sava river valleys.  They form a border between Slovenia and Austria. The Karawanke continue the function of the Carnic Alps separating Italy and Austria further to the west.  As a border, the Karawanke have served that purpose since at least Roman times.

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SOMETIMES, HIGHEST IS NOT BEST – JEREBIKOVEC AND DEBELA PEČ

Rjavinja, Triglav and Skrlatica from Jerebikovec.

Slovenes love mountains. They love them so much they put one on their flag – Triglav. Triglav is all and good. If not for the fact that everyone wants to climb it, Triglav is still a pretty neat peak. But there are so many other peaks in Slovenia, just as fascinating with views as good. Sometimes, the best views are not off the highest peak, but of the highest peak. Here are two such cases, Jerebikovec and Debela peč. We have already seen other cases further west in the Julians.

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MALA MOJSTROVKA THE EASY WAY UP – Vršič Pass

north face mala mojstrovka
The magnificent north face of Mala Mojstrovka from Vratica saddle.

Slovenia is not a flat country.  There are lots of hills culminating in the Julijske Alpe – the Julian Alps.  The border with Italy bisects the range leaving the highest peak, Triglav 2,864 meters, in Slovenia and the second highest peak,  Jôf di Montasio 2,755 meters, in Italy.  The mountains figure deeply into the soul of Slovenia with Triglav being featured on both the Slovene flag and coat of arms.  To explore this mountainous wonderland, you can do it cursorily from a car or motorcycle.  But at some time, you will need to wander the trails and climb the peaks to understand the specialness of these mountains.  There is no better place to explore Slovenia from the top than to join the crowds parked atop Vršič Pass – 1611 meters – and walk. From Vršič Pass, the magic of Mala Mojstrovka awaits.

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