LA FAYETTE GROVER AND THE END OF OLD OREGON

TALES FROM RIVER VIEW CEMETERY

La Fayette Grover as a US senator in the late 1870’s – Matthew Brady photograph.

River View Cemetery is one of two historic cemeteries in Portland, Oregon. Lone Fir was the first cemetery, but filling up in the latter 19th Century, River View was established in the hills just – then – outside the growing city. Here, the families of well-to-do Portland buried their loved ones and still do. Walking through the memorials is a history lesson of the city. Street names come to life – through death. The larger monuments tend to overawe the more numerous plainer ones, as if trying to sum up life as the dead thought of their experience. Stories abound here among all of the graves, and it is one of the smaller, lesser monuments we move to today – the grave of La Fayette Grover, third governor of Oregon.

There is a small area in Portland where west-to-east streets are named after old Oregon governors. The sequence follows a series of Union military leaders from the Civil War – Grant, Sherman, Hooker, Meade, Porter (there is a Caruthers Street thrown in for good measure in between the governors, with a good story to boot.). In the governor section, there is Woods, Gibbs, Whitaker, Curry, Pennoyer, Gaines, Lane, Abernathy and Mood.  Another governor with a short section of streets is Grover Street.

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TURN OF THE CENTURY COURTHOUSES OF CHARLES BURGGRAF

The former courthouse of Douglas County designed by Charles Burggraf – 1891

COUNTY COURTHOUSES OF OREGON

Of Oregon’s thirty-six counties, nine featured courthouses designed by Charles Burggraf at the turn of the 19th century. Burggraf was an Oregon-based architect and German immigrant. Three of those nine are still in use today, with two still operating as county courthouses while the other is a museum.

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TIGER TOWN BREWERY – RENEWAL FERMENTED IN THE WILD WEST

Tiger Town on a quiet afternoon during the week in May. A different picture after June 1 and on the weekends before.

Tiger Town Brewing Co. is another one of the many examples of how craft breweries can revitalize a community. Mitchell, Oregon is and has always been a very small town. Centered not far from the geographic center of the State, Mitchell’s population since 1900 has always wavered around the 200-person mark, some years over (especially 1950 when the population soared to 415, though ten years later, it was back down to 236) and some years under. The 2010 census clocked Mitchell at only 130 people though that number rebounded a bit by 1920 with 160 people calling Mitchell “home”.

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BREAKING IN A NEW MOUNTAIN CORGI – THREE CORNER ROCK

View south from the base of the former lookout atop Three Corner Rock.
View south from the base of the former lookout atop Three Corner Rock.

One of my first posts covered the hike on Three Corner Rock with my last mountain corgi, Cuillin. Even at 12, Cuillin showed the style, stamina and simple good looks of the corgi in the heights of the Cascade Range of southern Washington State. He lived up to his Gaelic name. Three Corner Rock is high enough to be classified a Munro, even a metric Munro since the peak is 3,550 feet high (1082 meters). For those not familiar with the quaint system of mountain classification in Scotland, Munros are mountains over 3,000 feet (914 meters) and metric Munros are over 3,300 feet (1000 meters).

Of course, the mountains in the Pacific Northwest are higher and more numerous than Caledonia. We call Three Corner Rock, the perfect place for a fire lookout, at least until it moved north to the San Juan Islands.

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LATOURELL FALLS – waterfall magic and a primeval canyon

The main Latourell Falls dropping 224 feet in one long plunge over basaltic cliffs.

Latourell Falls is an easy hike. At only 2.4 miles with a gain of 625 feet, the hike is one for the masses. And the masses do hike. Come early. Come late and there will be no parking.

Here, the first of a series of waterfalls seen from the old Columbia Gorge Highway US 30 in an area known as “Waterfall Alley”. Technically, it is not the first, but it is the first seen from the old highway heading east from Portland.

The hike being short can easily be an add to other short hikes or even longer, more technical endeavors.

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NATURAL EMULSIONS MANIFEST IN THE PAINTED HILLS

Sunsets seem to pop out the colors even more at the Painted Hills.

The Painted Hills can be magical. Geological stratigraphy on display. Reds, tans, blacks, browns all laid out in layers slightly tilted. Of the three units of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, this one attracts the most visitors. The Hills are closest in distance to large cities of any size – one and half to two hours from Bend (90 miles) and four to five from Portland (a little over 200 miles depending upon your route) – while the other units are another hour further on.

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HOW TO CLIMB TRIGLAV IN ONE DAY – OR NOT

Triglav rising with the Krma valley on the left and the Kot in the middle. Peak to Triglav’s left is Rjavina. View is from Jerebikovec.
Route of Triglav climb attempt
My route on Triglav one-day climb attempt. Foiled because of popularity.

There are not many countries thinking enough of their mountains to emblazon them on their national flag. Slovenia is an exception. Triglav, the highest, represents the strength of the Slovene soul. On a summer weekend, the goal of every Slovene seems a whack on the ass – the reward for a climb of Triglav. “Thank you sir. May I have another!” Afterall, Milan Kucan, the first president of Slovenia said, “It is the obligation of every Slovene to climb the mountain at least once in one’s lifetime.

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DOGGIN’ IT IN THE FLOWERS ATOP DOG MOUNTAIN

The next to last switchback before the summit of Dog Mountain is reached. Indian Point is the tall rocky point in the sunshine on the Oregon side to the right center with Wind Mountain further to the right on the Washington side of the river.

Ahh, Dog Mountain. This seven mile, 2800 vertical foot gain hike is one of the most popular in the Columbia River Gorge. I would guess it to be number three after Multnomah Falls and Angels Rest, both on the Oregon side easily accessed from the freeway I-84. Dog Mountain is on the Washington side in between the towns of Stevenson and White Salmon-Bingen with the trailhead right on Washington Highway 14. The hike is a workout, but the views over the eastern sections of the middle Gorge during the wildflower season of mid-spring are what brings the crowds out.

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ANCIENT DREAMS AWAKEN BY FOSSILS OF THE JOHN DAY

Sheep Rock with Picture Gorge to the right.
Sheep Rock with Picture Gorge to the right.

Thomas Condon, John Day and fossils all come together in the middle of Oregon. The fossils came first. Then, trapper and hunter, John Day, working with the Pacific Fur Company came west in 1810. He spent the final ten years of his life living in the Pacific Northwest. He and fellow fur trader Ramsay Crooks were robbed and stripped of their clothes by Native Americans near the confluence of the John Day and Columbia Rivers.  History records four different dates for John Day’s death and posterity has left many geographic features named in his memory.

Sheep Rock from the John Day River near Cant Ranch.

The best known is the John Day River. Note – there is another smaller John Day River near Astoria close to the Pacific. This river is the fourth longest river in the lower 48 United States without a dam along its entire length. It is the longest within Oregon and the Pacific Northwest – not that there have not been plans for one. The section between Service Creek and Tumwater Falls is part of the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System.

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REVEALING WHAT LIES BEHIND THE SHROUD OF BRIDAL VEIL FALLS

The Bridal Veil reveiled.

Bridal Veil Falls is one of the more dramatic waterfalls of the Columbia River Gorge. The falls was once the site of local industry, but now restored to natural magic. Walking to the falls is short and is an easy add-on to a more extensive day. Or, it is easy to just sit and watch the waters deep inside the forested canyon of Bridal Veil Creek.

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