Slovenia is not a flat country.  There are lots of hills culminating in the Julijske Alpe – the Julian Alps.  The border with Italy bisects the range leaving the highest peak, Triglav 2,864 meters, in Slovenia and the second highest peak,  Jôf di Montasio 2,755 meters, in Italy.  The mountains figure deeply into the soul of Slovenia with Triglav being featured on both the Slovene flag and coat of arms.  To explore this mountainous wonderland, you can do it cursorily from a car or motorcycle.  But at some time, you will need to wander the trails and climb the peaks to understand the specialness of these mountains.  There is no better place to explore Slovenia from the top than to join the crowds parked atop Vršič Pass – 1611 meters – and walk. From Vršič Pass, the magic of Mala Mojstrovka awaits.

Vršič Pass

Vršič is a word you can see on Slovene maps more than once.  The word means “little peak” and refers to the small hill rising up on the north east side of the pass.  It was not until 1911 the pass was named Vršič.  There was an old trade route finding its way over prior to 1914.  But it was not until World War One the route was made into a road to help supply Austro-Hungarian troops on the Isonzo-Soča front.

The road features 50 hairpin turns on the way over from Kranjska Gora to the north and into the Soča valley to the south – the curves are numbered.  Some ten thousand Russian prisoners of war worked, laboring to finish the road in 1915.  A small Russian Orthodox chapel on curve 8 – 1129 meters – commemorating the death of 110 prisoners and 7 guards during an avalanche in early March 1916 burying a work camp.  The chapel was finished in November 1916 and refinished last in 2010.  A small pyramidal monument on the side of the chapel remembers, “To the Sons of Russia”.  The road was renamed Ruska cesta – Russian Road – in honor of the builders.

In between the World Wars, the border between Italy and Yugoslavia ran over the pass.  After World War Two, the border moved back to the west to approximately where it lay before World War One.

Starting Points

There are several mountain lodges near the pass where you can stay, eat or drink at.  Directly atop the pass is the Tičarjev dom and the Poštarska koča.  What makes the pass special is you are in the middle of some wonderful peaks and magnificent hikes.  There is a parking fee of a few euro at the pass to be aware of.

If nothing else, a short hike to the top of Vršič will give you an even better appreciation of the pass and your surroundings.  To the east, the bulk of the Prisojnik 2,547 meters dominate.  Two famous rock windows sit high up on the peak which you cannot see from this angle. One feature you can is the Ajdovska deklica – the Pagan Girl, an image of a woman’s face, which was created by rock fractures. 

The Pagan Girl is a petrified pagan giantess. A kind woman who helped people find their way over the pass.  But also, she was a fate diety and could foretell the destiny of newborn.  One baby boy from Trenta she foretold would become a brave hunter, unrivalled by any other. He would shoot a white chamois with golden horns, sell the horns and become incredibly rich. When the other Fates heard of her prophesy, they cursed her. When she returned to her home in Prisojnik, they turned her to stone and remains so today.

Slemenova špica

There are wonderful hikes on both sides of the pass.  I decided to focus on the west side where there are two hikes leaving in opposite directions.  First, we will try the northern option.

Both hikes are very popular, but the one to the north especially so.  This hike goes up and over a little pass on the way to Slemenova špica – 1911 meters.  The hike is a short one – five and a half kilometers – with only 350 vertical meters to gain on the way.  Most of the gain is on a long diagonal out of Vršič Pass to a small saddle – Vratica 1807 meters – with Mala Mojstrovka on the left and Robičje on the right.  Prisojnik is magnificent to the east.

At the saddle is a trail intersection and turn right to Slemenova špica.  You walk across a rolling plain with stunted trees and huge rocks.  In a little over a kilometer, you come to the little peak – stay left at a trail intersection so you do not drop into the Tamar valley – which you climb.  The grassy knoll has one of the more memorable views in all of Slovenia.  The massive north face of Mala Mojstrovka behind you.  To the left is the incised Tamar valley with Jalovec at the head and the ski jumps of Planica Nordica at the other valley end.

Along the base of the North Face

The best views are early in the day and the trail is also a bit quieter.  By the time you get back to Vršič Pass, the parking lot will be full.  Many more will be walking up as you descend.  Instead of descending directly the same way, you can make a little loop around to the base of the north wall of Mala Mojstrovka.

Descend from Slemenova špica the way you came up but bear right near the bottom.  This path goes to Slatnica, another small saddle.  From Slatnica, turn left and follow the path up through the scree at the base of Mala Mojstrovka.  You switchback up through the scree fields and eventually get up high enough to see Vratica in the distance.  Along the way, you pass the lower part of the via ferrata going directly up the north face of Mala Mojstrovka.  Do not go up this route without climbing harness and helmet.

Time to go up High again

Return to Vratica and from there to Vršič Pass.  Only half of the day gone, so time for the second option. This hike goes to the top of Mala Mojstrovka using the easier south side.  The hike takes a little over two hours to gain the summit. Follow the sign in the direction of “Mojstrovka”.  Like the first hike, the path diagonally gains elevation, only the opposite way.  A thin forest gives way after 30 minutes to scree.  Aiming for the prominent gully, stay on right side until you are right up into the gulley.  Follow the loose footsteps across to the other side and continue carefully to the top of the gulley.  Once on top, you have the beginning of wonderful views to the south. They stretch from Kanajevic and across the upper Soča valley.

Above the Gully

Turning to the right on top of the gulley, a short steep section through krummholz brings you up to a good vantage point overlooking Vršič Pass.  As you get above the treeline, the path stays below a ridge on your right.  Lots of scree are between you and the top, but careful footing takes you to the top without too much difficulty.  I descended the ridge to avoid the tedious scree on the way back.  You could easily ascend this way too, though there are no path markings.

Top of the Julians

The summit of Mala Mojstrovka is even more fantastic than the morning outing.  Now, views over much more of the Julian Alps greet you atop the 2,332 meter high peak.  Do not be surprised with helmeted hikers emerging from the north.  This is the top of the via ferrata – Hansa pot – going up the north face of Mala Mojstrovka we saw earlier in the day.  The views are incredible.  Do not expect to be alone atop this peak, but it is wide enough for all to enjoy.

Always options

A short scramble can take you further along the ridge line to the top of Velika Mojstrovka – 2366 meters – where the views of Javolec and the Tamar valley are incredible.

End to a Day

Descend the same way you came up.  Take care, especially in the gully.  Try not to cause rockfall on those below you as you make your way back down to Vršič Pass.  With bad weather, think of somewhere else to go.  It took me two tries to get up here, the first time ending in rain.  If you cannot see what is the point of risking yourself on the wet rock?