Ahh, Dog Mountain. This seven mile, 2800 vertical foot gain hike is one of the most popular in the Columbia River Gorge. I would guess it to be number three after Multnomah Falls and Angels Rest, both on the Oregon side easily accessed from the freeway I-84. Dog Mountain is on the Washington side in between the towns of Stevenson and White Salmon-Bingen with the trailhead right on Washington Highway 14. The hike is a workout, but the views over the eastern sections of the middle Gorge during the wildflower season of mid-spring are what brings the crowds out.

HISTORY ON DOG MOUNTAIN

There was a fire lookout placed up on the south shoulder of Dog Mountain from 1931 until 1967 with a lookout camp previously set up before the first lookout cabin was built – another lookout replaced the first lookout in 1953. The lookout was manned by personnel from the Mt Hood National Forest even though Dog Mountain is in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Reason for the ‘outsiders’ was they were looking out for possible fires across the river in Oregon.

The original path of the Cascade Crest trail – today’s Pacific Crest Trail – came up from the Columbia River in an even steeper fashion than today’s trails – which range in steepness from 10-25%. That trail continued on over Augspurger Mountain – the trail still exists – and went up above the west side of the Big Lava Bed to Grassy Knoll. When the State trail was taken over into the national PCT, the route was re-routed to the west so people crossing from Oregon could take advantage of the Bridge of the Gods in Cascade Locks. The newer PCT swings back to the east cutting across the middle part of the Wind River Valley before meeting up with the old trail route going north into Indian Heaven.

trails on the dog

Another problem with the route up Dog Mountain is the same reason the PCT was re-routed from the Ruckel Creek trail on the Oregon side coming down to the Columbia River by Cascade Locks – simply too steep. Because the PCT was and is an equestrian trail, as well, the trail tries to keep itself to a maximum of 15% grade.

PERMITS AND ACCESS TO THE DOG

Dog Mountain is very popular. The parking lot is rather large. I did not count, but have read there is parking for about seventy cars which seems close. During the week, the best time if you can, still come early. A start from the parking lot trailhead at 8 to 8:30 am should get you a spot.

Weekends are complicated from the end of April to mid-June by the need for a special permit. A permit does not guarantee a parking spot either. Come early or take advantage of a shuttle bus running from the Skamania County Fairgrounds on the west side of Stevenson (518 Rock Creek Road, Stevenson) over to the trailhead. Getting a spot on the shuttle does come with a permit – $2 round trip. See the highlighted link for more information on that.

Parking at the trailhead, even with a permit (proof of which needs to be carried on your hike), costs $5 a day or a $30 annual Forest Pass.

The trailhead is directly on Washington Highway 14 ten miles east of Stevenson. From Portland, it is about an hour east on I-84 crossing over to Washington at Cascade Locks -$2 each way – to Washington 14 and head east a little over twelve miles through Stevenson or just come east on 14 from Vancouver for a different view of the Gorge.

THE HIKE

Hiking up from the trailhead – two pit toilets located here just up the path – you gain vertical ground quickly. The first half mile switchbacks up through ponderosa pine and white oak. On the forest floor is abundant poison oak so do not wander off the trail. Ticks and rattlesnake possibilities being other things to watch out for along the trail.

At 0.7 miles is a trail junction. To the right goes a “difficult” newer path, slightly longer with a few more switchbacks and slightly less steepness. To the left, a “more difficult” older path which attacks the gradient a little more vigorously through the forest. The first path is a little more scenic with a viewpoint a little over a mile up. Most people seem to take this path. You can go up one path and down the other for variety.

Whichever path you take, they both meet up again higher on the mountain – another half mile beyond the viewpoint for the newer path. Above the junction lies the steepest part of the trail, as steep as anything else on the “more difficult” path. Luckily, the way is not too long before the summit meadows begin to peer through the trees. Use care in this section on the way down because of the loose pebbles and dirt on the trail surface.

meadows begin

At a mile past where the two trails merged, traversing up through the floral meadows, you come gain the site of the former lookout on the south shoulder of the summit. Known as Puppy Point, or simply, the Pup, some of the best views are from here. A lone concrete block which used to anchor the lookout is the only remains to be seen today. Looking to the south over the Columbia at the forested cliffs on the Oregon side, shows the reason for the choice for the lookout spot. The tall mountain dominating the opposite side is Mount Defiance with its communication tower atop. Mt Hood’s peak sometimes juts just over the ridge with clear weather.

To the west, Wind Mountain dominates the view set directly on the Columbia shore with the town of Carson and the Wind River Valley to its right. Again, clear weather, Mt St Helens makes an appearance.

dog mountain summit

From the Pup, the trail continues up through the meadows on the west side of the summit over a notch in some cliffs. Shortly thereafter, coming to a trail junction with the path leading on to Augspruger Mountain, veer right onto the summit trail. Two switchbacks leading up through more flowers brings you to the “top”. “Top” at least for most. The actual summit lies in the woods to the east, but the trees obscure the view. The tread on the path belies the fact that most people doing the hike, do not bother with the summit.

what goes up must go down

A note on winds up here. They can be hammering out of the northwest. Felt from the Pup to the top, they can make the passage over the cliffs seem more adventurous than needed. Another trail leads from the Pup through the forests on the south and east side of the summit. This path can be used the wind howls.

difficulty

How hard is it? I have heard from many people about how difficult a hike Dog Mountain sounds like. If you are in some kind of shape, it is not that difficult. The corgi had no problem. I sweated a lot, but made it all right. That is with a knee brace on a arthritic knee internally held together by scar tissue. Let us call it moderately difficult. Normal weather, that is.

We met a young man going down the mountain when ascending. On our way down, we met him going up for round two – nearly a 6000′ vertical gain day. We joked to him, “You must have left your keys on top of the peak!” Something I have personal experience with.

On a recent trip up nearby Wind Mountain, Ollie and I passed by a lad who writes guidebooks on the region. We know this because we had stopped to talk him after passing him twice on our hike to Devils and Angels Rest. He started the morning we ran into on Wind by climbing the Dog. Finishing so early, he felt he needed more, so up Wind he went.

TIMING AND FLORAL DISPLAY

prearrange your visit to dog mountain

Timing is everything up here. The reason for the weekend permit season from late April to early June is the floral display peaking then. Simply too many people which caused problems at the parking lot on the highway below. The trail is moderately difficult and not scenically filled until the upper regions. Coming all the way up out of the spring season still gives you a great view, but the summit meadows alive with color are really special.

Do the hike early in the day. Not as many people get up early for one thing. The main reason is the lighting is much better. One of the main views is to the south, so if you are late, the views can wash out with the sunlight. The same pertains to views to the west if you hike later.

Sunset atop the peak can also give nice pictures, but this means you will need to descend with a headlamp.

the flowers

Northwest Balsamroot (Balsamorhiza deltoidea) is the main floral entry up here. The golden yellow flowers are everywhere in the meadows. Balsamroot blooms all over the east side of the Cascades. Other well-known fields of the plant bloom lower and a little earlier in the year and can be visited, as well.

Columbia Gorge Lupine (Lupinus latifolius var. thompsonianus) and Harsh Paintbrush or Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja hispida) are two other flowers livening up the scene bringing variation to the golden background. Many other flowers beyond my knowledge without taking a plant book along are seen up here, as well.

DOGS OF DOG MOUNTAIN

A ritual of sorts for mountain corgis to show what they have got – Toffee, Cuillin and Ollie have all passed with flying colors. Each showed nothing but enthusiasm for the floral challenge.