Category Archives: Other World Mountains

KÄRTNER SPERREN – LOCKING THE DOOR IN THE JULIAN ALPS

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Looking down on Fort Kluže from Fort Hermann.
Looking down on Fort Kluže from Fort Hermann.

After the crushing loss suffered by the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the battle of Sadowa in 1866, The Empire lost more lands in Italy to the Kingdom of Savoy.  The entire Veneto added to earlier losses of Lombardy and smaller duchies in central Italy like Tuscany.  Austria’s old defense system centered around the forts of the Quadrilateral.  Those forts were all given up after 1866 with the loss of the Veneto and Friulian.  A totally new defensive system became needed – enter the Kärtner Sperren.

In the far northeast of Italy, Austrian fortifications were not as elaborate as those in South Tyrol.  Here, a modern fort system developed in the early 20th century to both defend and to serve as a potential base for offensive operations against potential Italian aggression – even though, Italy supposedly was an ally to Austria-Hungary.

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TRANSATLANTIC JOURNEY REVEALS MAGIC IN THE AIR

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Late Fall sunshine on the east Greenland coast seen on a transatlantic flight from Frankfurt to Seattle.

After just returning from a series of eye clinics in Albania, I will share a few thoughts on the sights seen outside the window from over 34,000 feet as I made my way back on a long transatlantic sojourn. This was the second set of clinics I have worked in Albania.

My transatlantic journey began too early at a crowded Nënë Tereza Airport just to the northwest of Tirana.  The first of three flights involved in my return to Oregon was scheduled for 0600.  Another colleague was flying to Rome at 0530, so we shared a cab. We left our hotel out in the western Albanian countryside near Durrës at 0330.  This coming after our last day of clinics. In an unheated building, we saw over 700 patients in Kukës, Albania, three hours north of where we were staying close to the border with Kosovo.

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EVOKING EPIC STRUGGLES FROM A TEMPESTOUS TIME ON MENGORE

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Aljaž-like refuge atop Mengore – only large enough for pigeons, however.

There are several open-air museums relating to the ghastly events of World War 1 along the Soca-Isonzo River valley. Six are found in the upper reaches from Bovec in the north to Tolmin in the south. Here, we concentrate on those found on three hillocks – one being Mengore – across the river from Tolmin on the west side which made up the Tolmin Bridgehead.

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HIGH ATOP MONTE NERO, THE COLONEL WEPT – MAGIC OF KRN

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View from atop Krn looking northeast into the heart of the Julian Alps, Jezero Lake far below.

Over a hundred years after the tumult of the Great War, vestiges of the struggle remain in visible evidence around the 2245-meter-high mountain top of Krn – Monte Nero (Black Mountain) in Italian.  Strands of barbed wire twirl about on the slopes adding to the drama of the incredible views from the Adriatic Sea to the Italian Dolomites and into the heart of the Slovene Julian Alps.  Here on Krn and its surrounding ridges, mountain warfare on a harsh scale took place from mid-June 1915 through to the end of October 1917 when the Battle of Caporetto moved the unmovable front far to the west for the Italian Front’s last acts.

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ITALY IN SLOVENIA – NEW “Natural Borders” TO DEFEND

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Postcard shows new ‘natural borders’ added as a result of Italia irredenta,

It is easy to forget which ruins are from which war as you wander about in the Julian Alps.  Many trails have beginnings in one of the World Wars or in the events preceding or suceeding.  Many mule tracks still hiked on built by either Italian or Austro-Hungarian military engineers.  Vršic Pass became a main road only during the First War. The cost of hundreds of Russian prisoners of war dying during in its construction by some ten thousand POWs. The Julians were set to become Italy’s new “natural borders” with the east.

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LUKNJA – MAGIC UNVEILED WALKING IN THE SHADOW OF TRIGLAV.

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The majestic North Face of Triglav towering above the upper Vrata Valley.

Triglav is the mountain defining Slovenia.  The three-headed mountain – Triglav means three heads – is so beloved, it takes center stage on the nation’s flag (Quick aside – Slovenia is one of eight countries with mountains on their flags and one of three featuring a three headed peak –San Marino and Slovakia are the other two.  Costa Rica has three peaks on its flag, but they are separate mountains, actually representing different mountain chains, Slovakia’s three bumps also represent three separate chains.). A hike to Luknja in the shadow of the giant mountain can unveil magic on an incredible scale at nor too hard a physical cost, not always an easy sale on Slovene mountain trails.

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KARAVANKE – FORGOTTEN MOUNTAINS OF SLOVENIA

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Mountain haze shared with cows atop Dovška Baba with Visoki Kurjek ahead on the Karavanke crest

The geography of Slovenia’s greatest mountain range, the Julian Alps is a confused mess. Mapmakers are much more at home with the Karavanke.  This chain extends for about 75 miles – 120 kilometers – in a west to east fashion geographically separating the Drava and Sava river valleys.  They form a border between Slovenia and Austria. The Karawanke continue the function of the Carnic Alps separating Italy and Austria further to the west.  As a border, the Karawanke have served that purpose since at least Roman times.

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TABLE MOUNTAIN – THE BETTER OPTIONS

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Devil’s Peak to the left and Table Mountain to the right from atop Lion’s Head.

Cape Town has been described as the most beautiful city in the World.  The natural setting is indeed magnificently unique.  Table Mountain and the Atlantic Ocean dominate.  The original town lies in the City Bowl created by Table Mountain and Devil’s Peak to the east and south.     To the west, the Lion’s Head and Signal Hill complete the semi-ring. It is truly an urban equivalent of the glories found farther to the east atop the wilds of the Drakensberg.

Many times, to properly appreciate a mountain, you need to climb another to gain a better appreciation.  So, it can be with Table Mountain. My journey started here.  Lion’s Head gets it name because the shape resembles a reclining male lion looking towards Table Mountain. Signal Hill is also known as the Lions Rump.  Again, better appreciated away from the mountain.     

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HOW TO CLIMB TRIGLAV IN ONE DAY – OR NOT

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Triglav rising with the Krma valley on the left and the Kot in the middle. Peak to Triglav’s left is Rjavina. View is from Jerebikovec.

Hiking route taken on my one day “climb” of Triglav – route is in light green.

There are not many countries thinking enough of their mountains to emblazon them on their national flag. Slovenia is an exception. Triglav, the highest, represents the strength of the Slovene soul. On a summer weekend, the goal of every Slovene seems a whack on the ass – the reward for a climb of Triglav. “Thank you sir. May I have another!” Afterall, Milan Kucan, the first president of Slovenia said, “It is the obligation of every Slovene to climb the mountain at least once in one’s lifetime.

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CLIMBING GOATFELL BY WAY OF THE MAIDEN’S BREAST

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Continuing my Scottish sojourn climbing mountains, visiting family castles and tasting the wee dram here and there, I come to the island of Arran. Arran goes by the moniker of Scotland in a nutshell. There are mountains, a golf course, a Holy Island, ferries, midges, sheep pooping on local football fields and a distillery. Here we will concentrate on the first topic – mountains – climbing Arran’s highest peak, Goatfell, by route not climbed by the thousands. Normally, you get off the ferry at Broderick and make a beeline for the peak so you can catch a later ferry. Here, we are taking the bus further north to the little village of Sannox. A wilder and steeper route for Goatfell awaits from here up the Cioch na h’Oighe – the Maiden’s Breast.

A Maiden’s Breast? The Cioch na h’Oighe lured the lonely Scottish shepherds apparently.
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