For most visitors to Yosemite National Park, a visit equals a trip to Yosemite Valley. I do not have any statistics but would easily say most visits are limited to a quick stay in the dale that Ansel Adams describes as “Yosemite Valley, to me, is always a sunrise, a glitter of green and golden wonder in a vast edifice of stone and space.”

Nevada Barr, a mystery fiction writer best known for her Ana Pigeon series involving a myriad of national parks and law enforcement, related this tale about the park, “The story is, a man came up to Yosemite and the ranger was sitting at the front gate and the man said, “I’ve only got one hour to see Yosemite. If you only had one hour to see Yosemite, what would you do?” And the ranger said, “Well, I’d go right over there, and I’d sit on that rock, and I’d cry.”

But then environmental journalist Michael Frome notes, “Yosemite Valley is like a tourist zoo. It’s shameful.”

BEYOND THE VALLEY

So, is the Valley one or the other? The true answer lies in between. It is glorious viewed out of the high season of summer when crowds invade the valley floor. National parks are simply too good for their own good attracting throngs just because they are parks. But Yosemite is one of the truly elite national parks attracting appropriately numbered visitors.

While the valley can be truly grand, the park is so much more. To see it for an hour from California Highway 140 driving along the valley floor would indeed be grounds to find a rock to cry on.

Most of Yosemite National Park is magnificent wilderness few people get back into. I am inclined to far-reaching views being an amateur hiker-climber. I have had the opportunity to hike from the valley floor to the top of Yosemite Falls but have also been able to set foot on several other peaks within the park where the views were truly transcendent. Here are a few of my options away from the crowded valley.

CLOUD’S REST

Most enthusiastic hikers dream of ascending the chain ladders on the back side of Half Dome.  The hike covers 17 miles, and the Park considers the journey “maybe the most strenuous hike in any park”.  Over 1,000 people were doing the long hike before a lottery-permit system was instituted.  The walk is open from late May through early October climbing 5,700 feet (1,737 meters) along the way.  Only about a third of people who apply for a permit – $10 – gain one – 300 are allowed each day with 225 going to day hikes and 75 for backpackers. Those costs are beyond the $35 entry fee for the Park.

There is an easier alternative with better views and no need for permits – Cloud’s Rest.  Cloud’s Rest is a thousand feet higher than Half Dome giving great views into the mountains beyond the Valley, as well as the Valley and of Half Dome.  An out and back trail covering 12.5 miles while gaining 3,260 feet (994 meters).

THE HIKE

The most common starting point is from Tenaya Lake at the Sunrise Lakes trailhead off California 120 – Tioga Road – in the middle of the park.  The road is closed in the winter.  Like most hikes early in the season – May through July – mosquitos can be a real deterrent after recent snowmelt.

The first mile and a half are reasonably flat before you begin climbing for just short of a mile to the Sunrise Lakes trail taking off to the left.

The trail then rolls a bit for the next couple miles before reaching the final climb – two miles – of just over a thousand feet to the high point at 9,926 feet (3,025 meters).  The last quarter mile section is exposed granite – exposed, but much less so than Half Dome.  Views extend over much of the Park with Half Dome close at hand.  Like any peak in the Sierra – including Half Dome – Cloud’s Rest is not a place to be if a thunderstorm is close at hand.

MOUNT HOFFMANN

If you are heading to the higher regions of the Sierra, the first day can be tough.  Even Cloud’s Rest at just under 10,000 feet can be enough to cause real problems with the altitude.  Most hikers are coming from elevations closer to sea level.  A quick ascent to high altitude can easily bring on nasty headaches or much worse.  The old climber’s adage goes, “Climb high, camp low.”  Something to think about that first night in the High Sierra.  I have seen backpackers hauled out who died from altitude sickness.  Know the symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness and descend quickly.  That said, I have been able to counter effects of rapid altitude gain with Diamox, in some cases, and prophylactic aspirin.  With either, you need to treat yourself before you begin your hike.  If a headache occurs, it is too late.

I liked to enjoy a week of hiking high in the eastern Sierra for years.  The first day was always the hardest.  My usual first day was either this hike or the following one, both wonderful views and not too difficult.

THE MOUNTAIN

Cloud’s Rest is mentioned as a favorite hike of park rangers.  Cloud’s Rest sits on an official park trail.  Mount Hoffmann does not.  That said, the unofficial path leading to the top of the mountain is as good as an official one, though without signs.

To reach Mount Hoffmann, you turn off CA 120 a little over a mile before – west – of Tenaya Lake at the May Lake sign – 2.4 miles west of Olmstead Point.  Drive the dirt road almost two miles to the parking area and trailhead.  May Lake is a site of one of the High Sierra Camps – a series of camps offering neophytes a backpacking experience that is not too difficult.

After a relatively easy hike into May Lake – 9,329 feet 1.3 miles and 470-foot elevation gain – begins the real fun.  Follow the unmarked but well-defined trail from the southwest corner of May Lake up to Mount Hoffmann.   You will reach the peak with a little scramble at the top – 1,530 feet gain from May Lake to the 10,856-foot-high peak – in another 2.2 miles.

Mount Hoffmann is in the middle of the Park.  You have the whole thing in front of you.  The views are truly incredible.  A fantastic first day in the High Sierra.

MOUNT DANA

Another option I have used on occasion for my first High Sierra venture is Mount Dana.  Mount Dana is high – 13,061 feet high, just 50 feet lower than the Park’s highest summit, Mount Lyell.  Lyell requires a much more difficult approach.  Dana is simply a hard day hike off CA 120.  And the views!

Directly east from the eastern Park entrance on CA 120 at Tioga Pass, follow the well-worn boot path directly south of the entrance station.  The entrance station sits at 10,000 feet.  Another 3,061 feet to gain.  A short wander across ponds and plains brings you to a steady upward slog with the timberline soon reached.  The altitude definitely can come into play here as you ascend scree slopes and marmot-filled meadows.

The view from the top is one of the best in the High Sierra.  Mono Lake to the east and the Sierra crest north and south – three are the glaciers of Mount Lyell.  The White Mountains are in the far southeast skyline with both Boundary-Montgomery Peak and White Mountain Peak visible. The payoff for the slow steady way up is definitely given out.  Again, this is not an “official” trail and there are no signs.  The way is obvious, however, with the big bulk of Dana straight ahead.  About halfway up, the path levels briefly before resuming its upward onslaught.  A pair of trekking poles come in handy, especially on the descent.  As with all these hikes, include plenty of water.  Total distance is about six miles.

MOUNT CONNESS

The last two hikes are a little more difficult yet getting into the lower category of ‘scrambles’.  Mount Conness is a big white mountain you see from CA 120 on the horizon rising above Tuolumne Meadows. The towering West Face is well known among alpinists.  First up was the inimitable Warren Harding, long time veteran rock climber of many ascents in the Valley – “nose” of El Capitan – and other ventures throughout the Sierra.  A climbing partner of Harding’s, Galen Rowell – a well-known photographer – noted, “He was known for two things; his incredible endurance and his ability to hold alcohol.”  Harding eventually died in 2002 from liver failure.

The mountain is easiest handled from the south – Young Lakes – or the southeast – the Sawmill campground just south of Saddlebag Lake.  The latter hike can be done in a day while Young Lakes approach would be better done as a backpack starting from Tuolumne Meadows.  Both routes entail short class 3 scrambles.

CLASS THREE

Class 3:  Climbing a steep hillside, moderate exposure, a rope may be carried but not used, and hands are used in climbing. A short fall could be possible.  Class 2 involves a steep incline with possibly using your hands and Class 1 is trail hiking.

Helmets can be handy to protect yourself from others on the path above you.  I find a rope on a class 3 route as much more trouble than it is worth.  My experience is with the latter route though the Young Lakes route looked from above to be slightly less technical.  Both routes come together to climb the final ridges.  This is an excellent route to up your hiking game.

THE ROUTE

To get here, turn off CA 120 just below the Tioga Pass entrance station – east – turning north onto the road signed for “Saddle Bag Lake”.  Sawmill Campground – a walk-in campground – I about One and a half miles up the good dirt road – Saddle Bag Resort and Campground is two.

From Sawmill, cross over Lee Vining creek staying on an obvious trail going up a tributary creek coming in from the west – Lee Vining Creek comes in from the dam at Saddle Bag Lake.  The trail passes by a couple of small buildings belonging to the Carnegie Institute Experimental Station – 9839 feet.  Conness is straight ahead, and you want to stay on the trail that goes up to the southwest – not the valley to the right.

Crossing alpine meadows and small tarns the way becomes lesser trafficked the further along you go.  As you get closer, look for a ramp leading up to an obvious pass on the south ridge coming off Conness.  This is the crux of your trip.  Loose steep scree can make for a couple exciting steps.  Soon you are at the pass and can look down at the other main route coming up from the Young Lakes to the southwest.

ON THE RIDGE

From the pass, an easy use trail climbs the last 1,000 feet above timberline until the final exposed ridge leading to a short scramble up the last 200 feet to the 12,590-foot-high summit.  Look to the left at the magnificent West Face or the right over the Conness Glacier far below and Saddle Bag Lake.  The views extend over most of the northern part of the Park.  Dana and Hoffmann are visible in the distance.

Retreat the same way you came up – 7.4 miles altogether with a gain of 3,080 feet.  Use care when descending the ramp off the pass.  Trekking poles can come in useful with the loose scree.

MATTERHORN PEAK

Save the hardest for last.  Matterhorn Peak – 12,279 feet (3,743 meters) – is the tallest peak in the northern Sierra to exceed 12,000 feet according to the Summitpost offering. “North” in this case, must mean anything north of Mount Conness.

The Matterhorn Peak reigns as the king of a sharp granite series of spires along the northern boundary of the Park known as the Sawtooth Ridge.  Jack Kerouac wrote about an unsuccessful attempt in Dharma Bums.  From the southwest and southeast, there are class 2 routes.  Plenty of class 5 routes on the north.  This route – up Horse Creek canyon – is class1-2 until the final 200 feet which are class 3.

Access to the mountain is from Bridgeport, a small town on highway US 395.  Take the Twin Lakes Road to its end – 13 miles – where you find Mono Village resort.  Overnight parking cost $15, but this hike is possible in a very long day. If you do camp in the backcountry, you need a free permit for the Hoover Wilderness or the Park on the south side of Horse Creek Pass. A ranger office is on US 395 one mile south of Bridgeport.  June through September, there is a quota system in place meaning only so many permits are given out per day per trailhead.  You can get reservations for a fee.

HEADING OUT

From the parking lot, head for the trail follow the sign “Hiking Trail” found at the south end.  Crossing the bridge over Robinson Creek, the trail heads left through the woods quickly crossing to the east side of Horse Creek.   A series of switchbacks climbs up the east side of the canyon reaching a fork with the Cattle Creek trail going off to the left at about 2.5 miles.  Stay right on the Horse Creek path.

Walking through a forested meadow you come to the first rockslide on the east side of the canyon.  Rock cairns lead to the trail on the west side.  As you approach a headwall, cross to the east side, and climb up through scree for 100 feet, then turning right to get over the main part of the headwall.  Back over the creek – which is running under the rocks – turn up the canyon again ascending to a small meadow.

At 9,500 feet, there is a mountain shoulder dropping down into the canyon from the right which you hike around staying low.  Once around, follow the canyon choice to the right aiming for the pass to the southwest.  The trail is quite faint by this time and easy to get off track.  Snow fields can also remain late into the season up here.  At the final headwall, stay right diagonally up the ramp on this side.

FROM THE PASS

At 5.8 miles – 10,900 feet – you reach the pass, and your views open up a bit to the south down Spiller Canyon.  From the pass, there are various boot paths going up over the loose scree and shale towards the southwestern shoulder of Matterhorn.  Aim for two prominent rock spires going around the left side of them slightly.  At the base – 6.4 miles and 11,800 feet – sand and rocks lie between you and the summit, with the last two hundred feet being class 3 rock.

From the top, the Park and its peaks can clearly be seen from its northern boundary.  The rest of the Sawtooth Ridge goes off to the northwest with Horse Creek canyon dropping to the right.  Conness, Dana, and Lyell all are visible as is Bridgeport.

When you are finished taking in the views, return the same way you came up.  Total distance is 12.2 miles with 5,147 feet gained.  A long day with rewards.