We do have our favorite hikes.  And we have our favorite training hikes.  A training hike is not always our favorite, maybe because of the effort needed to complete.  Maybe the training hike has no real wow factor, just a lot of sweat and strain.  In recent years, one of my first major hikes of the season has centered on the Wahkeena Basin and Devil’s View high above.

WEST VERSUS EAST PORTLAND

I used to live on the west side of Portland.  For those not familiar with the geography of the Rose City, the Willamette River cuts through the middle of town. It separates West and East sides of the Oregon metropolitan area (The Columbia, even more so, lops off the significant numbers of people living to the north in Washington’s Clark County). 

For my first outing of the spring living on the West Side, I usually went towards the Coast. I had two favorites. One involved climbing Saddle Mountain in the far northwestern corner of Oregon.  The other option was Kings Mountain, further to the south, in the Wilson River Canyon near Tillamook.  The views from Saddle Mountain extend grandly in all directions.  Especially interesting is the view out over the mouth of the Columbia River.  Wildflowers, depending upon when the hike occurs, kept the hike alive as the path made its way up its switchbacks.

EAST SIDE WARM UPs

Moving to the East Side, put those Coast Range peaks several miles further. Reaching them during the week means fighting across the metro area during the morning commute and possibly the afternoon commute, as well.  Plus, there are other options that are much closer at hand.  Welcome to the Columbia River Gorge.

warm up versus stamina building

When I first took up alpine climbing, the Gorge trails were the ones I hiked to get in shape for the summer. I looked for those trails gaining the most elevation in the shortest time. 

Those trails were not always the most scenic.  Mt Defiance is a perfect example.  You gain 5,000 feet, but hiking through vegetation up a steep trail centers your attention on the ground.   There are only a few views on the long way up. 

Nesmith Point is another example of steep – almost 5,000-foot gain – and limited views, though the 2017 fires did “open” things up a bit.

steep versus “easy”

But a 5,000-foot gain is not a great way to begin your hiking season.  It is usually something to build up to.  People always say, if you can climb Mt Defiance, Mt. Hood is easier.  I think they probably both require the same amount of effort. Mt Hood might be a little slower because of the numbers of people climbing it on a limited number of routes.

There are plenty of “easier” hikes to build up your stamina in a more regimented fashion.  Plus, those “easier” hikes can come with more scenery to experience.  From the number of posts, I have made about hikes involving the Devil’s Rest, you might see a pattern developing in my early season choices.

DEVIL’S REST OPTIONS

Devil’s Rest can be approached from several directions.  The most often is directly up the Wahkeena Trail from the parking lot at the base of Wahkeena Falls.  You hike up over the falls to the top of the canyon, turn left onto the Devil’s Rest Trail #420C a little past the junction with the Angel’s Rest Trail #415 and you are there.  Note, for a super view stop just short of the summit taking the little side path to the Devil’s View. This is a 6.4-mile hike, rated by outdooractive.com as a 5:10 hour hike with 3,002 feet of gain and descent.

Almost as fast in reaching the top would be to turn right onto the Angel’s Rest Trail. At 2.6 miles out from your car, – 1781-foot level – look close for a fainter user path going up from the left. 

This is the Primrose Path.  A sign above notes the trail gets steep above.  The Primrose Path is fine going down, but a bit steep in my mind, for my hiking partner, Ollie the Mountain Corgi.  His little legs worked well going down this path. But I felt going up was a bit much for his first hike.  Totals here come to 6.5 miles round trip with a gain and descent of 3,228 feet over a time of 5:20 hours.

angel’s rest option

Another common option used to reach Devil’s Rest is to wander over from the top of Angel’s Rest. 

This way you can compare Heaven to Hell on the same hike which we did here. 

From the trailhead for the Angel’s Rest Trail to the top of the Devil’s Rest, including a visit to the Devil’s View, a descent on the Primrose Path and return to Angel’s Rest trailhead – via the Angel’s Rest Trail comes to 8.1 miles with 2,530 feet of gain and loss taking 5:20 hours.

You can also compare both Rests hiking up from the base of Wahkeena Falls done here.  This is a bit longer, covering 8.9 miles with a 3,307-foot gain and loss over 6:20 hours. 

multnomah falls is another option to start and finish from

Another option is to start from Multnomah Falls.  Parking permit reservations complicate any options from using Multnomah Falls options. 

But, if you were to use the Larch Mountain Trail up over the waterfalls on Multnomah Creek, then switch to the Wahkeena Trail.  Next, heading west and finally the Devil’s Rest Trail to the Devil’s View and the summit.  

Coming back down, you could finish up on the Wahkeena Trail to the bottom of Wahkeena Falls. Here, you take the Return Trail back to Multnomah Falls. 

This covers 7.9 miles with a gain and loss of 3,340 feet and a time of 6:20 hours – compared to going back the same way – 8.1 miles 3,353 feet gain and loss and a time of 6:45 hours.  You could shorten the first option by descending the Primrose Path to the Angel’s Rest Trail down the Wahkeena Canyon – 7.7 miles with 3,488 feet of gain and loss over 6:25 hours.  You get the idea, lots of options.

OPTION FOR 2025

The one I used this year was from the parking lot at Wahkeena Falls.  Here, we hiked up the Wahkeena Trail to the Angel’s Rest Trail.  Turning right, we hiked over user paths to the top of Devil’s Rest.  Our return was on the Devil’s Rest Trail – taking in the Devil’s View – and back down the Wahkeena Trail – 7.5 miles with 3,074 feet of gain and loss in an estimated time of 5:40 hours.

So, let’s take this hike step by step with lots of pictures.  The beginning is at the trailhead parking lot at the base of Wahkeena Falls. 

road construction

At this point in 2025, the Old Columbia Gorge Highway is closed here. Two viaduct sections of the highway are being reconstructed after 100 years of use.  The western viaduct is scheduled to open near the end of May allowing traffic to reach the small parking lot at Multnomah Falls Lodge. 

At that point, the viaduct just east of the Lodge will be closed from the Fall of 2025 until the Spring of 2026. That means access to the Lodge from the east along the Old Highway will shut down for a time.  To keep abreast of the several project ODOT is planning for updating and restoration of the Old Highway click here.

Parking

Remember the parking lot at Wahkeena Falls has room for about twenty-three cars with two more for disabled parking. Come early.  When we started at about 0830, there were maybe about five cars parked. 

By the time of our return in the afternoon, the lot was full, with cars waiting for people to leave. 

This tactic can serve you well if you park at the large parking lot off I-84 at Multnomah Falls. You do not need a permit if you get to the lot before 0900 (or after 1800).  After 0900, you need to reserve a parking permit – online – with a $2 payment.

For trailheads anywhere in the Gorge, getting there early is the best answer.  This includes Dog Mountain – remember there is a permit service here for weekends too, Hamilton Mountain, Coyote Wall, Lyle Cherry Orchard all on the Washington side; on the Oregon side, Angel’s Rest, Wahkeena Falls, Multnomah Falls, Oneonta Gorge, Horsetail Falls, Elowah Falls-Nesmith Point, Wahclella Falls, Eagle Creek, Indian Point, Starvation Creek, Rowena Plateau and probably Mitchell Point when that parking lot fully opens.

Wahkeena Falls and Canyon

From the parking lot at Wahkeena Falls, cross the creek on the little footbridge – Wahkeena Trail #420 – on the west end of the parking area.  Ascend a long asphalt paved switchback up to a footbridge at the base of the falls.  Here, getting a little wet, look up as the waters twist and turn as they tumble down the basaltic cliffs.

above the falls

The trail winds east from the falls, rises in six switchbacks up a ravine to gaining the top of the waterfall. 

Here, there is a short detour to a viewpoint dedicated to a local firefighter, Keith Lemmons. He died fighting a forest fire in Nevada in 1983.

Back to the main trail, the asphalt runs out. You are now on a regular earthen path as you enter Wahkeena Canyon proper.

wahkeena canyon

You cross the creek twice in a short time before beginning a series of switchbacks rise to Fairy Falls after about one mile from the parking lot.  At this point, you have gained 965 feet.

More short switchbacks continue the gains with the Vista Point Trail #419 coming in just above Fairy Falls.

At 1.4 miles in, you reach a junction with the Angel’s Rest Trail #415.  Turn right off the Wahkeena Trail.

Wahkeena Springs and a new trail

After only 0.1 miles you come to Wahkeena Springs.  Most of the water for the falls and creek below emanate out of the ground here at the north end of Wahkeena Basin.  Old growth in this part of the basin survived the fires of 2017, a perfect point for a quick rest.  The elevation is 1380 feet, making your gain 1,271 feet by this point.

out from the springs

Traverse slowly up out of the basin through trees not so lucky to survive.

You make a sweeping turn out of the Wahkeena Basin with four long switchbacks rising up the mostly open ridge separating Wahkeena from the Mist Creek drainage.  At the 1802-foot level, 2.6 miles into the hike, you come across the lower terminus of the Primrose Path.  Look carefully because it is easy to miss.

Shortly after this junction, you cross the east branch of Mist Creek – on rocks – and then the west branch on a hewn log bridge.

Not long after crossing the bridge, look for the user path coming in from the left. Turn here and notice you are now on Lily’s Lane.  There is a fascinating system of user paths which have been developed and maintained by local volunteers.  The paths lead over historical forest lanes reaching back in time to when the Bridal Veil Company used to log the area atop the Devil’s Rest and up onto Larch Mountain.  These trails do not show up on USGS maps – only officially maintained trails appear here.

User Trails

Here, courtesy of Don Nelsen, one of the dedicated volunteers who helps up here, is a map showing the user trails up here in the area between Angel’s Rest and Devil’s Rest.  Print it out.  Most of the trail junctions are signed, that is until someone takes the sign for their collection.  Red ribbon trail markers can help if in place.  The trails are easy to follow in most cases, many using forgotten overgrown spur roads dating back to their time used during the logging times.  A couple of the signs can be a little questionable in how they point, so take a map until you really know these trails.

After only 0.2 miles on Lily’s Lane, take another user path to the left signed “Devil’s Fork”.  There is also a sign “Devil’s Rest 1.0 miles”.

devil’s fork

On the Devil’s Fork you pass two trail junctions – first, “Devil’s Cutoff” and second is the old Foxglove Trail.  The second path used to be the main way between Angel’s and Devil’s Rests.  Signs point to both Rests at the second junction a little confusingly.  Go straight ahead on the path with a ribbon trail marker on it. This is the continuation of the Devil’s Fork.

The Devil’s Fork path ends at a junction with the She Devil way.  While it is not marked “She Devil”, there is a sign with a female-looking devil with “Devil’s Rest .35” on a tree at the junction.  Turn right and the She Devil will take you to the top of Devil’s Rest.

You pass a junction with the Little Devil, ignore it and keep straight.  The old Foxglove comes in from the right just as the final little climb commences to the summit.  The old Foxglove attacked the summit in a more straightforward manner but suffers from erosion.  The Devil’s Fork-She Devil bypass is easier.

Devil’s Rest

As you go up to the summit, you join Devil’s Rest Trail #420C – an officially maintained trail – coming in from the east.

You can note two signs here; one notes the end of maintained trail. The other notes the elevation of Devil’s Rest – 2402 feet-740 meters.

early in the season means less vegetation

After the summit with its limited views, head down to the Devil’s View.  This is the real goal of the hike.  The views over the western Gorge and the Wahkeena Basin from the Devil’s View are magnificent.  You get a good impression of how some forested slopes were spared destruction in the 2017 fires.  Winds whipped the flames from one ridge to another.  Far enough from Eagle Creek where the blaze began to the east, you can notice trees on the east slopes of ridges spared while the west slopes received the full blast of wind-borne embers.

Another thing to notice.  This hike was done mid-April when vegetation was just coming back to life.  The trails are easier to find.  My corgi is not faced with walking constantly through a tunnel under the underbrush which he has in late May or June.  Sunny days in April are not predictable in the Pacific Northwest, but if you have a chance, this is the best time.  Later in the season, the user paths are much more difficult to spy if you do not know where they are.

Return

This day, we returned on “official” trails instead of possibly taking the Primrose Path.  The Devil’s Rest Trail allows views through the trees back at the summit and the Devil’s View.  One side path goes off to the right about halfway around the crest of the Wahkeena Basin.  This path, another user path, leads out to the Multnomah Basin Road.  The road runs from the Larch Mountain Road into the Multnomah Basin to the east.  Homesteaders used to live down this direction in the early part of the 20^th century.  Today, the road leads to the Trail Club of Oregon’s Nesika Lodge.

Once past this junction and a couple more views, the trail descends down switchbacks in the Shady Creek canyon.  The waters here culminate in Shady Creek Falls coming into Multnomah Creek from the west just above the Multnomah Falls Lodge.

You meet up with a junction with the Wahkeena and Vista Ridge Trails. Turn left and follow the Wahkeena Trail back down to your car.