The White Mountains of New Hampshire are seen by many as the pinnacle of mountain ranges in the Northeast and the eastern Seaboard, in general, no malice intended towards the Blue Ridge, Smoky or Adirondack ranges. Topped by Mount Washington – 6,289 feet – the range is historic. The mountain is almost the same height as its namesake in the Olympic Mountains of Washington State – 6,260 feet. That peak being a bit more difficult to climb. Rising above all other peaks in the White Mountains are the Presidents.
FIRST AMONG PRESIDENTS
Mount Washington is famous for being the center of the worst weather imaginable. Maybe the hyperbole results more from PR than reality. That said, the weather on Washington can get very nasty. There is a long established weather observatory atop the peak. It definitely gives proof to weather being much more challenging the higher up you go.
For many outdoorspeople in the US, the Whites and maybe the Adirondacks, represent the epitome of alpine experience. Thousands flock to these slopes throughout the year. They revel in some of the best alpine environment to be found east of the Rocky Mountains. To experience Mount Washington, you do not even have to get out of your car. A cog train exists as another non-sweat option. Most internet reviews from drivers are positive, though some were not impressed with the road – too narrow – or the congestion on holiday weekends.
The solution is easy. Walk.
THE PRESIDENTIAL RANGE
Central to the White Mountains is the Presidential Range. These, the highest mountains in the White Mountains are mostly named after presidents. The range extends about six miles to the south from the top of Mt Washington towards Crawford Notch. To the north, another couple miles to Mt Madison before the ridge drops down to the town of Gorham. Eight of the peaks honor presidents from the past, with other politicians filling in on other prominent peaks.
To find solitude atop the Presidentials is not something aimed for during good weather. They are a beacon for outdoorsmen in the northeastern region of the US. Several mountain huts serve hikers, though reservations are a must. Costs are in excess of $100 a night per person reflecting the extreme popularity of the experience.
PRESIDENTIAL TRAVERSE
Probably the trek most aspire to – for those not doing the entire length of the Appalachian Trail – is the Presidential Traverse. The hike consists of 19-23 miles and gains 9,000-11,000 vertical feet along the way. Usually, the hike takes two days, though lots of speed records for day hikes nave been posted.
New Hampshire is a long ways from Oregon. I only had a weekend to experience the White Mountains up close, so I centered on the Presidents. Staying at a venerable old mountain hotel in nearby North Conway, I chose a long day’s mini version of the Traverse looping out of the Appalachian Mountain Club hut at Pinkham Notch. From there, up the trail over Tuckerman Ravine, Mount Monroe, Washington and around the Great Gulf to the north – peaks Clay, Jefferson, Adams, Quincy Adams and Madison. To return, I dropped down the Madison Gulf trail linking with another road back to Pinkham Notch.
TUCKERMAN RAVINE
Tuckerman Ravine is a glacial cirque to the immediate south of Mt Washington. It is most known for the thousands of skiers who test its backcountry slopes in the spring. Gullies leading down into the ravine vary between 40 and 55 degrees in steepness.
Heading up and west from the parking lot near Pinkham Notch, I took the Tuckerman Ravine trail ascending through forests. The path uses a rocky tractor road – used by skiers for the approach to the base of the ravine. After 2.4 miles, the path reaches shelters at the floor of the ravine next to Hermit Lake. The Lion Head makes up the ridge on the north side of the ravine with Boott Spur on the south.
The trail now ascends the ravine directly gaining a flat stony plain – Bigelow Lawn – on top. Mt Washington lies straight above to the right. The trail moves directly to the summit. But I headed straight west over the “lawn” on the Tuckerman Connector. In a mile the trail reaches the AMC Lake of the Clouds hut. Sited next to the pondlike Lake of the Clouds, this is one of the most popular AMC huts.
PRESIDENT MONROE
Still being relatively early in the morning, I pushed on to take on my first president – Monroe. From the hut a well-worn path leads up to the southwest to the top of the 5,384 foot high peak. You have a nice view over the lake below towards the buildings beyond atop Mt Washington. The smaller peaks of the Presidentials roll off to the southwest, only one – Franklin – barely reaching above 5,000 feet.
Returning to the Lake of the Clouds, Mt Washington lies ahead. The 1.4 mile climb is not too hard up above the timberline through the rocks. The path is the northern end of the Crawford Path, the oldest continuously maintained footpath in America – 1819. Crawford path connects Mt Washington to the southern Presidentials. Just before the summit, the Gulfside Trail takes off to traverse the northern Presidentials. First, the top of the White Mountains and another of the Presidents beckon.
TOP OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS AND THE PRESIDENTS
A host of buildings and people greet you on the summit – the famous weather observatory, the large car park – the road to the top, coming from the east, is a toll road, the summit station for the cog train coming up from the west. Neither of these options are cheap – $70 for the train and $35 for car and driver with $10 more per passenger. There is the Tip Top House , the sole remaining historic hotel, now restored by the state as a historic site.
A large viewing area next to the Weather Station lets you take in the far reaching views. The day I climbed was sunny and warm, but a lot of haze degraded the distance viewed. The short Trinity Heights Connector quickly leads back to the Gulfside Trail. Now the longer traverse around the west and north sides of the Great Gulf awaited.
THE GREAT GULF
Like the Tuckerman Ravine, the Great Gulf is another glacial cirque only much larger. The Gulfside Trail dates back to the late 19th and early 20th century. Above the timberline, the path leads to constant glorious views into the Gulf, back towards Mt Washington, along the ridgeline above the Gulf or off towards distant ranges. The path does not summit each of the little peaks on the way around the 6 miles leading off Mt Washington to the Madison AMC hut, going just below the little peaks instead. Little side trails lead up to these shoulders of the ridge.
The entire way above timberline means weather needs to be factored before starting out. There are several steep side trails going into the Gulf or off to the west and north off the ridge one could take if needed to. You might end up a long way from your starting point if you need to head off on one of these routes however.
THE GREAT COMPROMISER
Mt Clay is the first knob to the north of Mt Washington. Standing atop the 5,533 foot high peak, you have already descended over 700 feet. The mountain honors Henry Clay, the famous 19th century Whig senator and secretary of state from Kentucky. There was a move by the state to rename the mountain, Mount Reagan, in the early 2000’s. But tradition holds and the name remains.
Clay is not considered to be mountain in its own right. With less than a two hundred foot rise between the little pass between the two peaks, Mt Clay officially is only a shoulder of Mt Washington instead.
SECOND HIGHEST OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS AND SECOND OF THE PRESIDENTS
From Mt Clay, the descent leads to the Sphinx Col. The next of the White Mountains presidents is just ahead. Then a slight ascent to the north and Monticello Lawn just below Mt Jefferson. The Gulfside Trail stays lower – 5,400 feet – while another short connector goes up to the top of Jefferson, 5,712 feet. Jefferson was the third president and appropriately the peak ranks as New Hampshire’s third highest.
Descending to the north from Jefferson brings you to Edmands Col, 4,930 feet. The col separates two more glacial cirques – Ravine of the Castles leading north and Jefferson Ravine dropping east into the Great Gulf. Reaching the col takes 3.5 miles from the top of Mt Washington. You might have added a little extra with the short side paths to the top of Clay and Jefferson, as well.
From the col, the path turns to the northeast crossing a wide rocky plain. You aim for a little pass just below Mt Adams on its west side. There are several trails meeting here on the ridgeline – Thunderstorm Junction – 5,520 feet. New Hampshire’s second highest peak rises a short distance to the right.
PRESIDENTS TWO AND FOUR
Mt Adams stands at 5,774 feet. You have great views over the Gulf back towards Mt Washington from here. To the east is the last of the White Mountains Presidents, Mt Madison, with the steep Madison Gulf dropping off in between. According to the Aetherius Society, Mt Adams is one of 19 Holy Mountains of the world.
Pushing on to the east, you drop off Adams to rejoin the Gulfside Trail just above the Madison Hut – 4,800 feet. The Gulfside ends here and you have choices. Mt Madison – 5,387 feet – stands above the hut to the east. Madison was supposed to be the fourth highest in the Presidentials but a surveying error caused the fourth president to get the fifth highest President – Monroe, the fifth president is the fourth Presidential. The Osgood Trail goes up over the top and descends the Osgood Ridge to the south.
DESCENT
The day now getting late and with still 6.8 miles to go. So, I left the last President to a possible future walk. Instead, I dropped down the Madison Gulf Trail. This trail takes no time in dropping steeply over the headwall of the Madison Gulf. The trail is not one you want to go up or down in wet weather.
The headwall drop involves about 800 feet in 0.8 miles. You continue descending along with Parapet Brook 2,300 feet to cross the West Branch of Peabody River covering another 1.7 miles. A little more uphill takes you out of the Great Gulf until you cross the Mt Washington Auto Road. It is all downhill from there on the Old Jackson Road for another 1.8 miles.