A new year, a new season to get out once again and explore. While the Covid pandemic lurches on, people have begun to venture out again to discover what lies beyond their living room. Vaccinations are reaching into ever greater numbers of folk. Hamilton Mountain was calling to me.
SPRINGTIME IN THE GORGE
This hike was special to me on several counts. First, having hiked many of the trails in the Columbia River Gorge, I never walked this path. Second, a new mountain corgi to introduce to the mountain terrain. Third, Hamilton Mountain was the first moderately serious hike I attempted after suffering ruptures of both anterior medial collateral ligaments in a knee already arthritic from years of heavy use following an ancient football injury. So, knee brace in place, with trekking poles in hand along with one leashed mountain corgi, it was time to climb high once more.
The Columbia River Gorge attracts more people to its trails and waterfalls every year. Trailheads fill quickly even on weekdays in good weather. The number of cars parked at Multnomah Falls, Angel’s Rest, Herman Creek and Dog Mountain seem to increase each year. Hamilton Mountain is another trail very popular with Gorge enthusiasts. The trail has several things recommending it. Two beautiful waterfalls lie within about a mile of the trailhead. Next, the steep ascent up Hamilton offers spectacular vistas near and far with views among the best in the Gorge. Most all peaks in the Gorge can be sighted from somewhere along the hike – Chinindere, Dog, Table, Hood, Tanner, Nesmith, Larch, Archer to name but a few.
MECHANICS
To get to the trailhead, turn north off Washington Highway 14 opposite the roadside parking for the Beacon Rock trailhead. Turn north onto a road marked for a campground. The lane promptly climbs about 200 vertical feet before reaching a moderately large car park – maybe 50 cars – next to a small picnic area. The parking lot fills quickly, so come early or later in the day when people leave. You need a Discover Pass, a parking permit good for many different Washington State areas – State Parks, Natural Resource lands. The Pass can be bought at the trailhead – or at the Beacon Rock trailhead – with a credit card. A Pass is good for a day $10 or a year $30.
BEGINNINGS
To hike to the top of Hamilton requires at least a 6.4 mile minimum for a round trip. To make the descent more tolerable, extend the hike to 7.9 miles and your knees will thank you. Figure on four hours or so for the full hike.
The first mile gains about 600 feet in moderate fashion. In just under a half mile, the trail crosses a clear cut area where electrical lines cross over. Here is your first good look at Hamilton Mountain above.
WATERFALLS
A mile in brings you to two waterfalls on Hardy Creek. A sidetrail to the right goes down to a viewpoint of Hardy Falls, the lower falls. Another side trail goes up to the Pool of the Winds in the middle of Rodney Falls. If hiking the trail early in the day, leave these to your return when the sun is on them, early in the day shadows predominate.
Of the two falls, the viewpoint of Hardy Falls is not very rewarding. You wander steeply down to near the top of the falls where trees continue to block the view. A better view can be obtained by bushwacking off the trail to get near the base of the waterfall, but that takes quite a bit of effort, especially when you have the main part of the mountain ahead.
The side trail to the Pool of the Winds is highly recommended on the other hand. Rodney Falls consists of an upper part where the water plunges thirty-five feet into this constricted pool, sending up mists from the encounter, before emerging from the pool to drop another forty-five feet below with the trail crossing on a bridge.
ASCENT
After the waterfalls, the ascent begins in earnest. The path gains over 1,400 feet in slightly less than two miles. Switchback after switchback as you go up. The mountain corgi needed two lifts to get over the steeper sections. Areas of concrete have been added in some areas to solidify the path.
View above the waterfalls looking to Nesmith Point; Larch Mountain on the right with snow.
Beacon Rock pokes up on right above power lines.
After you pass the trail junction with the Hardy Creek Trail – the return route – the sweat begins to pour. The trail switchbacks up below basalt cliffs eventually climbing around to the back side of them. Sidetrails lead to viewpoints as you ascend. The views over the Gorge both towards Bonneville Dam and downstream are incredible. Take advantage of some of these for when you eventually top out on the peak, itself, the views are limited by vegetation.
Standing on the cliffs of Little Hamilton Mountain. Click and hold for 360 view.
The view from the peak does allow a descent view to the northeast and the next higher peak of Table Mountain. A great view of how the original Bridge of the Gods can be seen from here with the sheer cliffs of Table Mountain broken off to the south where debris flowed to dam the Columbia River.
THE SADDLE
For the best views of Table, continue on the path to the north for just under a mile to an obvious saddle. The wind will invariably be blowing here, but the views to the east over Table and beyond to Dog Mountain will be extensive over the valley of Hamilton Creek just below. Reaching the Saddle, you will have dropped about 300 feet to the north from the peak.
360 view from the Saddle. Click and hold for 360 experience.
DESCENT
Better for the knees is to descend along a road-equestrian path from the Saddle. A couple of sweeping switchbacks brings you down to a crossing of Hardy Creek just above 1400 feet – ignore the turnoff for Ed’s Cutoff Trail staying on the road. At the bridge, turn left onto Hardy Creek Trail off of the road-equestrian path. This trail contours and then drops slightly to meet your ascent trail shortly above the waterfalls after about two miles. Retrace the ascent route from here down to the parking lot – a little over a mile.
The hike completed, it is time to get into the car a cross the current Bridge of the Gods – $2 one-way – turning right into the town of Cascade Locks for the highly recommended reward of a libation at Thunder Island Brewing.
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