Over a hundred years after the tumult of the Great War, vestiges of the struggle remain in visible evidence around the 2245-meter-high mountain top of Krn – Monte Nero (Black Mountain) in Italian.  Strands of barbed wire twirl about on the slopes adding to the drama of the incredible views from the Adriatic Sea to the Italian Dolomites and into the heart of the Slovene Julian Alps.  Here on Krn and its surrounding ridges, mountain warfare on a harsh scale took place from mid-June 1915 through to the end of October 1917 when the Battle of Caporetto moved the unmovable front far to the west for the Italian Front’s last acts.

Colonnello che piangeva — The Colonel was weeping
a veder tanto macello — to see such slaughter
fatti coraggio Alpino bello — take heart o handsome Alpino
che l’onore sarà per te — honour will be for you
fatti coraggio Alpino bello — take heart o handsome Alpino
che l’onore sarà per te — honour will be for you

The last verse of the Alpini song Monte Nero

THE MOUNTAIN

Known as Krn in Slovene, the name translates to “stump”, the remains when the rest of the tree is cut off.  The Italians mixed the name with črn which means “black”.  Renaming the mountain in Italian, the name became Monte Nero.

Krn rises highest in its local mountain group.  Isolated from the main Julian Alps, the view over the entire region is magnificent.  The mountain features relatively easy paths to the top along with a via ferrata route much more challenging.  The mountain group lies on the southern edge of the Julian Alps with the river Soča – Isonzo in Italian – curling around the northern, western and southern borders of the group.  Off to the east, the South Bohinj Range tails off.

nOT THE HIGHEST

The elevation of Krn puts it well down the list of high peaks in the Julian Alps – over a hundred peaks soar higher.  But the peak rises quickly over 2,000 meters above the Soča River making the mountain much more dramatic especially from the west and south.  On the south steep forested slopes give way at about 1000 meters up to grassy slopes which continue up the mountain interspersed with rocks.  On all other sides, Krn shows off a much rockier face with rugged dolomitic cliffs.  Krnsko jezero – Lake Krn – sits 800 meters below, a blue jewel with the high peaks of the Julian rising behind.

To the immediate southeast, the ridge coming off Krn rises to Batognica, a mountain topped by mine warfare during the long standoff between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian sides. This peak is a literal outdoor museum with the number of remains found here at 2164 meters

RIDGeS SURROUND THE KING

The ridges to the east of Krn – Vrh nad Peski – are where much of the Austro-Hungarian defenses emplaced themselves after 16 June 1915.  To the northeast is the long ridge Krnčica-Vršič from where the Italians set up defenses along the 3-kilometer ridge.  Mule tracks, which supplied the troops above, switchback up the grassy slope from the west like on the south side of Krn.

The west face of Krn features a 900-meter steep rocky face in which climbing routes and the via ferrata coexist.

The Alpini

The Alpini make up the oldest active specialized infantry in the world established in 1872.  Originally, the mission was to protect the mountain borders of the new Kingdom of Italy, especially against the French, but always with an eye on the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  The first time deployed against an enemy was 1888 as Italy established itself on the shores of the Red Sea in Eritrea – one battalion made up part of the reserves at the disastrous battle of Adowa in 1896 – 400 of the 530 men died on the battle including the commanding officer.  More recently, the Alpini fought in the 1911-1912 Italo-Turkish War in Libya where there were no mountains.

Studies showed trained local militia were capable of defending the mountain borders of the new Italy in 1872.  15 specialized Alpini companies formed shortly afterwards.  Alpine valleys became recruited forming locals into companies to conserve their local knowledge of alpine conditions to defend the new kingdom.  Originally, the mountain regions split into seven military districts with at least two Alpini companies.  More companies were added shortly after with companies doubling in size organized into seven Alpini battalions named after the seats of the military districts.

EXPANSION

By 1877, there were ten battalions with 36 companies and five Alpini artillery batteries supporting.  The number increased with time, though now the battalions became renamed for areas where they would defend during war.  Special hats with tufts of color were given to the Alpini battalions to distinguish them from the ordinary Italian soldier.

 In 1909, the Alpini expanded dramatically – now, with 25 battalions in eight regiments with two mountain artillery regiments of 24 batteries plus 75 reserve companies organized in another 22 battalions.  The reserve battalions named after the valley from where the soldiers found recruitment – Valle or Val battalions.  Several Alpini battalions saw action in Libya between 1911 and 1914.

World War One saw an increase from the 26 Alpini battalions to 62.  Now, the pre-war battalions and the reserve battalions – named after valleys – found reinforcement with the newly raised battalions named after mountains in the recruiting areas from which the men came.  Some 264 companies eventually served during the war.

The Alpini regiments did not fight as units staying home to further recruit.  The battalions did, however, get put together into regiment-sized groups attached to brigade-sized groupings. These groups used along the Alpine front where needed.  Climbing and skiing became essential skills with further specialized units formed among the Alpini.  By war’s end, the Alpini suffered 114.948 casualties – 14.175 dead, 61,620 wounded and 39,153 missing (mostly from avalanche or mines).

Lead Up

The Third Alpini Regiment saw its men deployed originally in late May 1915 on the Isonzo front near Kobarid-Caporetto.  War was declared against Austria-Hungary on 24 May.  The Austrians were hard-pressed to defend the new war theater.  Italian invaders had an easy time, but their advances slowed by a tardy mobilization which brought forward only seven of a planned twenty-four divisions for the first push into Austria. Even with the level of troops Italy brought forward initially, twenty-four divisions could have rolled over the small number of troops they faced. Until 1 June, the Austrians only had twelve battalions from Krn to the Adriatic to defend with.   Austro-German successes in Poland – Gorlice-Tarnow campaign -during 1915 freed up many Austro-Hungarian units from the Eastern Front, soon transferred stopping the early Italian advances.

In the area around Kobarid, the Italians soon moved across the border repelling attempts to hold them.  They gained Kobarid – renamed Caporetto – and pushed across the river forming a bridgehead.  From there, it was up high, capturing much of the Krnčica-Vršič ridge during the first days of June.  Furious Italian attacks on both Krn and Mrzli vrh – a peak to the south – initially were repulsed, however, by Austro-Hungarian defenders.  The Italians hoped to gain the ridge of the mountain group to be able to flank the Austrian bridgehead further south around Tolmin.

Conquest

Intent on turning the Austrian flank, Italian Army commander General Pietro Frugiani ordered the occupation of Krn.  Two companies of the Exilies Battalion set out to climb and conquer the peak on the moonless night of 15-16 June.  Second Lieutenant Alberto Picco di Ulrico, only twenty-one, commanded the vanguard group of 130 Alpini under the command of Captain Vicenzo Arbarello supported by fire from the Susa Battalion of Captain Vittorio Varese. 

From our friends at the FB page of WW1 Frontline 3D Group

Climbing, in some cases without boots, only feet bandaged to minimize sound. The Alpini gained a position only two meters away from the Austrian lines without being seen.    The defenders atop Krn were Hungarians of the 4^th Honved (Reserve) Regiment in 1914, the regiment was split between Romanian and Hungarian soldiers – with little training in mountain warfare. They had only recently arrived from the Carpathians.  A company of the 4^th Bosnian Regiment was also posted high on the ridge to the north of Krn around Krnčica.

HEROES ARE BORn

In the attack, Picco wounded first in the foot, continued to lead. Shot a second time in the stomach proved fatal.  Before his death, he told Captain Vincenzo Arbarello, “Long live Italy and forward Savoy!  I die happy to have served my country well.” Picco gained the Silver Medal for Military Valor – Captain Arbarello proposed him for the Gold Medal – posthumously from the king. Picco’s remains were removed to the monumental cemetery of Torino in 1924.  Captain Vittorio Varese won the Gold Medal and a subsequent Bronze Medal for fighting on Mrzli vrh in late October.  However, he died of an infection later in November.

Captain Arbarello became known as the “conqueror of Monte Nero”.  He, also, was wounded in the attack.  Decorated after the battle with the Knight’s Cross of the Military Order of Savoy, he suffered wounds again fighting around the Tolmin bridgehead.  He would win two subsequent Silver Medals for Military Valor and one Bronze before losing his life in an avalanche in early April 1917 on the Carnic front.

From our friends at the FB page of WW1 Frontline 3D Group

Hand-to-hand combat won the peak for the Italians, who were also able to defend against Austro-Hungarian counterattacks.  The big problem for the Italians was no plan for action following the peak’s conquest – i.e., Continue the action southeast over Batgonica.  This led to stalemate up high and with subsequent defenses of Mrzli vrh, the Tolmin bridgehead saved for future operations.

Victory on Krn and the ridges to the north came at a cost. The Italians suffered two thousand casualties while the Austrians lost a thousand. The blood toll was just beginning.

Aftermath

Battles would continue atop of Batgonica, with deleterious effects to the peak but little change in adversarial positions.  The Italians would pay the price for not eliminating the Tomin bridgehead. At the end of October 1917, an Austro-German offensive bolted out and up the Isonzo valley. Italian forces up high in the Krn group were cut off.  The Italians, with nowhere to retreat to, were forced to surrender. The previous immoveable front pushed far to the west.

Austria-Hungary eventually lost the war. Italy claimed the watershed of the Isonzo-Soča with the new frontier pushed further to the east.  In 1928, on the site where Picco fell, a large monument erected bearing the words Victoribus Esto.  The monument described as destroyed after World War 2 by the Yugoslavs though lightning already damaged the monument.  The base of the monument survives as the foundations for the Gomiščkovo zavetišče mountain hut. It exists but fifteen minutes underneath the mountain’s peak.

Picco, one of the founders of the La Spezia football team, also gained honor by the stadium in La Spezia named after him.

Today

Several paths lead to the top of Krn today.  I took the 5+ hour hike out of the Lepena Valley to the north. The trail incorporates Austrian supply mule-tracks in parts.  I walked past the Krn jezero – Lake – mountain hut and then above Krnsko jezero to the south side of Batgonica and then northwest to Krn.  This, probably like most hikes to the top of Krn, was an all-day affair.

A shorter hike to the top comes up on the Italian mule-tracks to the south from Kuhinja Pasture.  This route labelled as three hours.  There is no tree coverage on the way, so take sun protection.

The via ferrata known as the Silvo Koren route.  It lists five hours up from the village of Drežnica to the west of the peak with an elevation gain over 1600 meters.

From our friends at the FB page of WW1 Frontline 3D Group

A visit to Krn remains magical whichever path taken.  Extend your visit with an overnight stay at the Gomiščkovo zavetišče mountain hut. Though if lightning took out the original monument what does that say for the hut?  Staying overnight puts you in easy position to explore the ruins atop Batognica or along the Krnčica-Vršič ridge.  Both are must-see destinations for the alpine-inclined Great War buff.

MONTE NERO – Song from the Alpini

Spunta l’alba del quindici giugno — Here is the dawn of 15 June
comincia il fuoco l’artiglieria — artillery begins fire
Terzo Alpini è sulla via — 3rd Alpini are on the way
Monte Nero a conquistar — Monte Nero to conquer
Terzo Alpini è sulla via — 3rd Alpini are on the way
Monte Nero a conquistar — Monte Nero to conquer

Monte Nero monte rosso — Black mountain red mountain
traditor della vita mia — traitor of my life
ho lasciato la mamma mia — I left my mother
per venirti a conquistar — to come and conquer you
ho lasciato la mamma mia — I left my mother
per venirti a conquistar — to come and conquer you

Per venirti a conquistare — To come and conquer you
ho perduto tanti compagni — I lost so many friends
tutti giovani sui vent’anni — all youths about 20 years old
la lor vita non torna più — their lives will come back no more
tutti giovani sui vent’anni — all youths about 20 years old
la lor vita non torna più — their lives will come back no more

Colonnello che piangeva — The Colonel was weeping
a veder tanto macello — to see such slaughter
fatti coraggio Alpino bello — take heart o handsome Alpino
che l’onore sarà per te — honor will be for you
fatti coraggio Alpino bello — take heart o handsome Alpino
che l’onore sarà per te — honor will be for you