Continuing my Scottish sojourn climbing mountains, visiting family castles and tasting the wee dram here and there, I come to the island of Arran. Arran goes by the moniker of Scotland in a nutshell. There are mountains, a golf course, a Holy Island, ferries, midges, sheep pooping on local football fields and a distillery. Here we will concentrate on the first topic – mountains – climbing Arran’s highest peak, Goatfell, by route not climbed by the thousands. Normally, you get off the ferry at Broderick and make a beeline for the peak so you can catch a later ferry. Here, we are taking the bus further north to the little village of Sannox. A wilder and steeper route for Goatfell awaits from here up the Cioch na h’Oighe – the Maiden’s Breast.

NORMALITY ON THE GOAT

The normal route up Goatfell is very busy and not too exciting. You basically walk past the Arran Brewery – not even a brewpub! What is up with that?! – and moving straight up to the top of Goatfell – 2,870 feet high which does not qualify for Munro status dropping down into the Corbett category. A Corbett is a peak between 2,500 and 3,000 feet high. The straight shot is for day hikers taking the train from Glasgow, connecting to the BrodIck ferry. Jump off and walk – or bus – around to the start of the hike, returning the same way. There are more interesting ways to reach the top of Arran. Here we will go down the “normal” route but chose a more interesting way to go up Goatfell using the Maiden’s Breast.

Most people come to Arran on the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry from Ardrossan on the west coast of the Scottish mainland. Ardrossan is served by rail direct from Glasgow – forty minutes. You can reach Ardrossan from the Prestwick International Airport by train, as well, switching trains in the village of Kilwininng – a little over an hour. The ship to Brodrick on Arran takes just under an hour.

IN LOCHRANZA WITH THE DEER

Not being most people, I came to Arran from Islay. A two hour ride across from Port Ellen on Islay takes you to the little ferryport of Kennacraig. Coming to and from Islay, make sure which of the two ferry ports your ride is using. Port Ellen and Port Askaig are a long way from each other. One of the buses waiting at Kennacraig will whisk you across the Kintyre Peninsula to the just as small ferry landing at Claonig. The mountains of Arran tempt you from the other side as you cross – 30 minutes – on the much smaller ferry to the village of Lochranza on the north side of the island.

This was my base for my couple days of adventure on Arran. With its little forlorn castle, red deer wandering all about, sheep pooping on the local football field and the Arran Distillery, you truly have Scotland in a nutshell. I seem to have luckily left the midges behind on the island of Skye, which was not regretted.

CHEAP DAY TOUR

A fairly inexpensive way to see the island is simply to hop on a bus going around the island. The interior of the island is mountainous. Most of the people living on the island live in little villages along the shore. Buy a daypass and off you go.

There are many places to hike on Arran whether it be along the sea or high in the hills. Wet ground always seems to be a problem with a lot of areas in Scotland, however. There is a reason “wellington” boots are popular. Something you should consider before just heading off on a vector.

APPROACHING CIOCH N’OIGHE

Using the bus to approach my climb of Goatfell, I go off in the hamlet of Sannox just over a little pass from Lochranza on the northeast side of Arran. Sannox is just north of the wide Brodick Bay.

Across from the bus stop, a small lane goes off to the west signed for “Glen Sannox“. Taking this lane, walk about a third of a mile to where you you cross the little Allt a Chapuill brook. The path is obvious most times, but you can lose it in the vegetation from time to time as you ascend towards Cioch na h’Oighe. There is an obvious path going up the lower section of the mountain you need to aim for.

CLIMBING UP THE MAIDEN’S BREAST

Reaching this path, you ascend to the northeast ridge where the route becomes a bit sketchier. At the beginning of the ridge, you have a nice view up into the Glen Sannox. Do not get sucked too far in this direction, however.

The way tends to zig zag a bit, if the climb gets difficult, you probably missed a turn. Just take your time and remember, the way does go up. This is not a good way to take in inclement weather, that almost goes without saying. The views out into the Firth of Clyde get better as you make your way up.

MULLACH BUIDHE

Finally you come out onto the bare granite summit of Cioch na h’Oighe – 2,169 feet/661 meters. Time for a rest here. The hard part is behind you. You still have to climb a bit but the ridge leading from the Maiden’s Breast to North Goatfell is, as the locals say, “magic”. The path is fairly obvious as you make your way over one outcrop after another.

Mullach Buidhe is the highest of the outcroppings at 2,723 feet/830 meters slightly over halfway between the Breast and North Goatfell. I am not exactly sure of the meaning. One internet translator gives me “yellow roof” while another talks of “buffalo”! There is another Mullach Buidhe further west on Arran just to make things more complicated (That Mullach is an actual “Graham”, the only one on Arran. This Mullach would be a “Corbett” but there is being on a ridgeline, it is not a separate mountain).

THE LONG RIDGE

The views along the ridge are super. To the north you look down into Glen Sannox. Another wonderful trek would be to hike both the south side and loop back on the north side of the glen. On the north side is a feature having the magnificent name of Ceum na Caillich, the Witch’s Step. To the south, the Holy Isle sits off Arran. You can also keep track of the ferries coming in and out of Brodrick. Your destination, Goatfell is in constant view along with people gathering on its top. In the meantime, you are in relative obscurity.

NORTHERN GOAT

Too soon, the ridgeline is complete and you are at the base of the North Goatfell. North Goatfell is a short hop up from where the ridgeline from the Maiden’s Breast meets the ridgeline running south off of Goatfell. Great views over the mountainous interior from atop the 2,684 foot/818 meter Corbett top. To do the Glen Sannox loop you drop down to the north from here, but we head south towards Goatfell.

A little outcrop separates the two Goatfells, Stachach Ridge. Climb up the rocks or go around and quickly you join the masses on top of Goatfell, 2867 feet/874 meters. You are on top of Arran. After the trek up, the summit almost seems a bit anticlimactic with crowds appearing suddenly.

ON TOP OF THE GOAT

Crowds or not, you are on top of Arran up here. There is a reason so many people hike up here. The views over the mountains of the island with the neighboring glens far below. Brodrick glistens to the south with the Holy Isle beyond. You can probably see beyond to the Kintyre, maybe even as far as Campbelltown? Or Ulster beyond? But this is Scotland. I was happy to see down into Glen Rosa far below Goatfell on its west side. Even on a ‘normal’ Scottish day the view was fine enough.

DESCENDING THE GOAT

Descent path I took was the normal ascent route coming up from Brodick Bay and Brodick Castle. The first half of the walk is relatively steep as you walk down the east shoulder of Goatfell – Meall Breac. Then, walking across flatter ground you turn to follow the Cnocan Burn as it rambles off the peak’s south side towards the sea. Pass a deer fence, enter into forests and soon you are down, passing a brewery without a brewpub. That just means more time to catch the next bus.