Cantharellus – cibarius in Europe and formosus here in the Pacific Northwest – the Golden Chanterelles, holds down one of the top three spots among edible mushrooms to be foraged from the forest duff. Along with porcini, morels and maybe matsutake, the chanterelle remains one of the most sought-after mushrooms for those seeking additions to their dining tables. There are certainly more than waterfalls awaiting you out in the forests of the Northwest.
CHANTERELLE ABSTRACT
Chanterelles are one of the best-known wild, foraged mushrooms. They occur in greater abundance than the porcini, probably the second mushroom people are most familiar with. Unlike the Boletus edulis – porcini, chanterelles come in many more different species, with some occurring right next to others.
They show up easier in the forest than the boletes due to their color – yellow to deep orange, though some appear white, too. Their caps are convex, wavy, funnel-shaped in contrast to round caps of other mushrooms. Color is the first feature setting them apart, with false gills running from the undersides of the caps down the length of the stems. A third feature separating them from the mix is a fruity, apricot aroma.
OCCURANCE
The chanterelle is found throughout woodland areas of temperate Africa, Europe, North and South America, Asia, and Australia. In North America, there are more than a dozen different species. They are sought after for their tender meaty texture and the complex earth-fruit taste. Chanterelles can also occur in multiple clusters popping up from the same tree. If you find a good section of the woods, you can have a large number of mushrooms in no time.
MYCORRHIZAL
Like boletes, chanterelles form mycorrhizal associations with the roots of specific trees. The tree of choice here in Oregon is the very common Douglas fir. That does not mean you will find them around every Doug fir – far from it, but Douglas firs are relatively easy to identify. These trees make up a large portion of second growth forests.
Also, again like boletes, chanterelles are ectomycorrhizal. This means the in-ground mass – mycelium – of the mushroom attach hyphae around the roots of their host trees. The hyphae do not push into the cell walls of the tree rootlets.
GILLS?
The gills on chanterelles are not true gills but classified as false – or primitive – gills. They resemble a venous forked arrangement extending down into the stem. There is no unique separation between cap and stem with chanterelles like with normal gilled mushrooms. Within the various chanterelle species there resides variation in the appearance of the false gills ranging from almost smooth to very defined. The false gills are folds which unlike mushroom gills, do not break when you run your finger over them.
LOOK-ALIKES – FALSE PROPHETS
While chanterelles are reasonably easy to pick out, there are a few mushrooms that look similar. First is the Jack 0’Lantern mushroom – Ompahlotus olearius. Similar in color, the Jack O’Lantern has true gills. They also tend to pop up in clusters on decaying wood. True chanterelles appear only with living trees.
Second, is the Wooly Chanterelle, also known as a False Scaly Chanterelle – Turbinellus floccsus. These don’t have the pleasant fruity aroma of true chanterelles. Their false gilled structure and color is very close to true chanterelles. But they have a scaly cap surface as opposed to the smooth or slightly wrinkled nature of true chanterelles. I have picked these before in the hope I have something of a find only to realize later, the find has evaporated.
An interesting sidenote on the Wooly Chanterelle can cause GI distress in some people. They are foraged in Mexico and even sold commercially there. The ability to safely eat them might be related to ethnicity in that European ancestry is not such a good thing here since the Wooly Chanterelle is an American mushroom. Native Americans could have developed the ability to safely digest these fungi over the years which Europeans never having the chance.
A third look alike is the False Chanterelle – Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca. Same color but False Chanterelles have true gills which are much closer together than the ridges of true chanterelles. They also lack the fruity aroma and can cause gastrointestinal discomfort.
TRUE CHANTERELLES
In Oregon forests, the two most common true canterelles you will find are the Pacific Golden Chanterelle – Cantharellus formosus – and the White Chanterelle – Cantharellus subalbidus. Both of these species cohabit with conifers, especially Douglas fir. I have often found golden and white chanterelles growing as neighbors on the forest floor.
Chanterelles start off as little buttons glowing from underneath the duff underneath the trees. As they mature, the cap forms a noticeable indentation in the center – vase-like, though that is not a solid rule with some retaining a flat or slightly rounded cap. The caps are smooth, however, not wrinkled or scaly like the Wooly Chanterelle. The stems are fleshy with the same color as the cap. The flesh is solid white or pale yellow, dense and the stems solid. Again, the smell of faint fruit can be strong if you find a large patch.
INTO THE FOREST WE GO
True chanterelles can often occur near places where the ground has been disturbed – edges of dirt roads, along washes. You find them singly or in small patches but can also find large patches. Bunches growing near each other are separate from each other. One patch can contain two or three groupings.
Beginning mushroom foragers can find true chanterelles without too much difficulty in the Coast Range of Oregon, Washington, British Columbia and northern California. Many times, once you find one group, more will be nearby. You can fill bags up within an hour or two or rummaging through the woods.
SAVING CHANTERELLES
Fresh chanterelles last up to five days kept in a paper bag or newspaper in a refrigerator. It is always better to use them up quicker than later. Unlike porcini, chanterelles do not dry well. They tend to become leathery and lose their fruity flavor upon rehydration. Instead of drying, many people use the dry sauté method before freezing them.
Dry sauté, also known in France as mushroom duxelles. Easy enough to accomplish in the kitchen, you simply give the chanterelles a good wash in the sink – one of the only times I plunge mushrooms under the tap. Conifer needles and dirt washed off, slice the mushrooms up to roughly the same size – maybe thumb-size, though other people slice them finer – and place the slices into a dry warm pan on about medium heat. You do not want it too hot to start, otherwise you may burn the mushrooms to the pan.
DUXELLES
Once they are in the pan, you can turn the heat up a bit to reduce the water in the mushrooms. As the mushrooms lose their water – about 8-10 minutes, add in a couple tablespoons of butter, a couple tablespoons of diced shallots, some fresh chopped thyme and ½ cup of dry sherry, madeira or dry white wine. Over everything put 1 teaspoon of salt and another of fresh black pepper. Stir the mixture over medium heat and cook for about 5 minutes until the liquid evaporates. A little lemon juice can help to maintain the chanterelle color instead of letting them brown.
Now, cool the mixture – duxelles – while adding seasoning if you prefer. Place the mixture into freezer bags. They should be good for at least three months, though others have related they have brought them out of cold storage after a year with no problems. You can pull the bags out as needed for any sort of recipes calling for either wild mushrooms or chanterelles, specifically,
EATING CHANTERELLES
Fresh or with a rewarmed duxelles, chanterelle versatility is great in the kitchen. Omelet filling, grilled cheese layer, tossed with pasta, filling for a chicken, spread on toast, made into a classic mushroom risotto, the list goes on.
Chanterelles can be used in soups, stews, fillings for meat or fowl. The duxelles can be toyed with as well. Chop up the mushrooms finer with some garlic and finish with a ½ cup of heavy cream. Top with fresh chopped thyme and parsley. Pour over salmon filets for a real Oregon treat – remember, chanterelles are the official Mushroom of the State.
PERMITS?
Chanterelles hold the position of State Mushroom in Oregon. You can pick up to a gallon of fresh chanterelles in State forests without a permit. Oregon Mushroom Picking Regulations – Oregon Discovery If you are going to pick more, especially when you try to sell them, you need to pick up a $100 permit good only for State forests. For National Forest lands, you need to check with each forest regarding whether you need a permit or not. Normally under 5 gallons is fine, though you still may need a free permit. Over 5 pounds normally equates to a $20 per day permit – $100 annual – per forest. And then, in all of the forests, State and Federal, you need to check maps because the permits are usually only good within certain areas of the forests.
Other states have their permit systems for their state lands and the federal forests have permit systems for individual forests. Permits are a bit convoluted. It might be interesting to see how many professional pickers actually hold the proper permits. Here is an older but still relevant guide to permits in Washington forests. Usually, you are good for 1-5 gallons of mushrooms, though only one quart is allowed in Olympic National Park.
FURTHER RESOURCES
There are lots of books dealing with mushrooms. Basic classics start with David Arora’s Mushrooms Demystified and later with the aforementioned All That the Rain Promises and More: A Hip-Guide to Western Mushrooms. The best guide for budding mycologists in the Pacific Northwest is from Daniel Winkler. Daniel is a transplant to Washington State by way of Germany. His book Fruits of the Forest: A Field Guide to Pacific Northwest Edible Mushrooms is my book of choice today. He also runs a travel group and blog focused on eco-friendly tours around the world – Mushroaming.
