Category Archives: Other World Mountains

LANDS OF THE WILD, WILD EAST – MAGIC OF EAST GREENLAND

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Icebergs, fjords, white wilderness of the east coasts of Greenland - Kangertittivatsiaq is the large fjord stretching inwards above the large island.
Icebergs, fjords, white wilderness of the east coasts of Greenland – Kangertittivatsiaq is the large fjord stretching inwards above the large island.

1000 Places to See Before You Die includes only one entry for the Autonomous Territory of Greenland – Disko Bay.  Nowhere is East Greenland mentioned. Author Patricia Schultz only gives the Faeroe Islands one entry as well while Iceland merits two.  The mother country, Denmark, gets ten.  But as she said in an interview with the Chicago Tribune when she was out promoting her 2019 update of her book; 1000 places, can you really find that many spots?  Her reply, “How can I narrow it down to just 1,000?”

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DOBERDO – HUNGARIAN SACRIFICE RECAPTURED IN THE KRAS

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Headstone in the Austro-Hungarian military cemetery in Bovec, Slovenia bedecked with a faded Hungarian tri-colored ribbon.
Headstone in the Austro-Hungarian military cemetery in Bovec, Slovenia bedecked with a faded Hungarian tri-colored ribbon similar to graves in cemeteries in Doberdo.

In 2018, as part of centenary observances of World War 1, a monument unveiled at Fiume Road Graveyard in Budapest.  This became the first national memorial erected commemorating the efforts Hungarians undertook during the Great War.  Government officials noted the memorial was in line with a fundamental theme of the nation: to restore historical continuity broken during the Nazi and Communist occupations.

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RAVELNIK AND ČELO – MEMORIES OF THE GREAT WAR IN THE BOVEC BASIN

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Ravelnik lies at the head of fields extending east of Bovec – Svinjak rises high in the distance.

Ravelnik and Čelo are two open-air museums allowing visitors a chance to visit spaces where soldiers of the Austro-Hungarian army defended the Bovec basin from invading Italian troops from the end of May 1915 until the end of October 1917. The two sites restored by locals and the Slovene government are different in what they offer as well as their original purpose with regard to their roles in holding off the Italians.

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DEFEAT ON THE KOLOVRAT CHANGES INTO CATASTROPHE

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Restored Italian trench line atop Na gradu – Green mountain in background is Mrzli vrh.

Standing in the renewed Italian positions of the open-air museum of the Kolovrat, you are rewarded with an all-world view over the Isonzo River valley with the Krn-MonteNero massif rising dramatically on the other side. Of the Bovec-Kobarid open-air museums, the view from here is only matched by what you gain at the former Austrian artillery base on Čelo above Bovec.

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LONG-DISTANCE PATHS RECOUNT THE GREAT WAR HIGH IN THE ALPS

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Unknown Austro-Hungarian grave in one of the countless sinkholes - dolinas - of the Carso found along the Pot miru - Path of Peace.
Unknown Austro-Hungarian grave in one of the countless sinkholes – dolinas – of the Carso found along the Pot miru – Path of Peace – one of Europe’s long-distance paths.

Long-distance paths have acquired quite a following in the past few decades.  In the US you have ways like the Appalachian Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail and the Continental Divide Trail standing as the Big Three.  There are plenty of other long-distance paths to spend days upon days on, as well, such as the Arizona Trail, the Green Mountain Trail, and on and on.  Of course, the American examples pale in number when compared to the Old World.

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SUPERGA DEMONSTRATES HOUSE OF SAVOY LOVE FOR TORINO

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Basilica atop Superga houses the Royal Tombs of the House of Savoy before Italian Reunification.

Three euros and one hundred thirty-one winding steps leads to the observation platform atop the base of the dome of La Basilica di Superga.  Only so many people are allowed to climb up at one time.  For the best of times, morning. Then, the sun illuminates the snow-clad peaks of the Alps to the west and north.  The city of Torino – Turin – sits far below resting on the banks of the Po River.  It is a magical scene, one allowing for reflection on the utter beauty, natural and urban.  The Basilica also represents the tie between an adopted city and the family that adopted it, the House of Savoy.

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MONTE SAN MICHELE ZONA MONUMENTAL – MEMORIES OF THE LONG YEAR

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Flagpole atop Monte San Michele remembers the Italian brigades who fought here as well as the Unknown Soldier in Rome whom was one of the Fallen from the battles here.
Flagpole atop Monte San Michele remembers the Italian brigades who fought here as well as the Unknown Soldier in Rome whom was one of the Fallen from the battles here.

Monte San Michele.  Welcome to one of the battlefields upon where so many Italians, as well as their opponents from Austria-Hungary, spilled blood during the 1915 to 1916. These campaigns fought in the harsh limestone hills just east off the Isonzo River.  The extreme efforts of that long year and three months remembered by King Vittorio Emanuele III’s proclamation in 1922 of the hill’s inclusion as a zona sacra, a place of special memory to the Italian nation.  At least three zone sacra in Italy relate to World War 1 – Pasubio and Monte Grappa are the other two.  There might be more but those along with Monte San Michele are the big three.

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ROMBON – ILL WILL FOUGHT OUT HIGH ATOP THE JULIAN ALPS

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The Italian Alpini monument high on Čukla, a long way up from the valley floor below.

Rombon sits at the eastern end of the dolomitic Kanin massif.  It is a serious mountain.  The climb is relatively straightforward, but it entails 1,750 meters of elevation gain over 5 ½ to 7 hours of climbing.  Once you are up there, you have all of that elevation to lose.  There is no water nor alpine huts up here.  The mountain rises to 2298 meters while Bovec, the normal starting point, sits at a mere 460 meters.  For over two years, Italians and soldiers from the Austro-Hungarian Empire grappled with each other amidst the alpine splendor.  The fighting conducted sporadically, but when fought, bitterly.

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KÄRTNER SPERREN – LOCKING THE DOOR IN THE JULIAN ALPS

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Looking down on Fort Kluže from Fort Hermann.
Looking down on Fort Kluže from Fort Hermann.

After the crushing loss suffered by the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the battle of Sadowa in 1866, The Empire lost more lands in Italy to the Kingdom of Savoy.  The entire Veneto added to earlier losses of Lombardy and smaller duchies in central Italy like Tuscany.  Austria’s old defense system centered around the forts of the Quadrilateral.  Those forts were all given up after 1866 with the loss of the Veneto and Friulian.  A totally new defensive system became needed – enter the Kärtner Sperren.

In the far northeast of Italy, Austrian fortifications were not as elaborate as those in South Tyrol.  Here, a modern fort system developed in the early 20th century to both defend and to serve as a potential base for offensive operations against potential Italian aggression – even though, Italy supposedly was an ally to Austria-Hungary.

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TRANSATLANTIC JOURNEY REVEALS MAGIC IN THE AIR

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Late Fall sunshine on the east Greenland coast seen on a transatlantic flight from Frankfurt to Seattle.

After just returning from a series of eye clinics in Albania, I will share a few thoughts on the sights seen outside the window from over 34,000 feet as I made my way back on a long transatlantic sojourn. This was the second set of clinics I have worked in Albania.

My transatlantic journey began too early at a crowded Nënë Tereza Airport just to the northwest of Tirana.  The first of three flights involved in my return to Oregon was scheduled for 0600.  Another colleague was flying to Rome at 0530, so we shared a cab. We left our hotel out in the western Albanian countryside near Durrës at 0330.  This coming after our last day of clinics. In an unheated building, we saw over 700 patients in Kukës, Albania, three hours north of where we were staying close to the border with Kosovo.

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