Nesmith Point gained the name Mount Nesmith in 1915, bestowed by the Oregon Geographic Board working with the Oregon Historical Society and the Mazamas, a local Portland climbing group. James Nesmith was a tough specimen, an important political figure from the early days of Oregon as both a territory and state.  He served as one of Oregon’s senators during the Civil War.  But Nesmith was never a climber spending most of his time in Oregon on his farm and grist mill near Rickreall, a few miles to the west of Salem where his grave also sits.

THE MOUNTAIN

The mountain represents the furthest east volcano vent of the Boring Lava Field which includes Larch Mountain, Mount Scott and a host of other buttes and mounts stretching from the western Cascades across the metropolitan area of Portland. “Mount Nesmith” could at one point have risen as the tallest of the Boring volcanoes, but the mountain’s northern walls sheered away during the Missoula Floods. Those same northern walls remain friable today with the occasional massive landslides even closing I-84 at times. 

Nesmith Point stands today the third tallest peak found in the Boring Field after nearby Palmer Peak and Larch Mountain. The short Wikipedia article mentions the 3,848 feet – 1,173 meter – point is the highest point on the lip of the Gorge; however, “lip” is determined. For a complete explanation of the development of the magnificent topography of the Nesmith massif check out the Wy’East blog.

A fire lookout used to stand up on top. The lookout reached by roads coming up from the Bull Run drainage to the south. Those roads today closed off by the Bull Run Watershed. The lookout consisted of a tent cabin erected in 1929 and replaced with an L-4 cabin in the 1930s. The lookout is long gone today. There used to be the remains of an outhouse to be discovered, but it too is gone, probably for good from the 2017 Eagle Creek fire. Luckily, the Point was mostly spared with reports of only ground fire up here, nothing like the areas of vast destruction you walk through on the way up.

REPUTATION

A common complaint I heard from others about this trail pre-fire was the relative lack of views, especially taking in the amount of effort to climb up the path. I only hiked this way once. Some many years ago, I used the path as a conditioning hike for the season of mountain climbing to follow. I remember the day has overcast – there may have been a bit of drizzle involved. The views were not all that great, and I was not interested in replicating the effort in the years afterwards. That is until this year.

THE TRAIL

Nesmith Point trail truly represents a conditioning hike trail. Do this to get into shape for bigger things to come. This trail and a couple of others like it will make those summer climbs of mountains like Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier, etc. a piece of cake.  Nesmith Point is not easy. It is harder than some easier climbs – insert Mt. St. Helens in this category. The “lack of views” problem has changed thanks to the 2017 fire. On a sunny day, from the top, you can see all the way to Saddle Mountain near Astoria. 

There is not one particular spot, however, to enjoy a magnificent 360 degree view from like atop Silver Star Mountain, Chinindere Peak or even the 180 degree vistas of Nesika Lodge, Larch Mountain, Indian Peak, Table Mountain or even Crown Point. But there are views to savor. That is as long as you can look up from the steep path as you climb at a pace seemingly unending.

approaches

The trailhead is at the John B. Yeon trailhead. This parking area just off I-84 can fill quickly. Most people will be bringing bicycles for a ride on the Old Columbia Gorge Highway’s return as a bikeway. Those hiking aim for easier destinations like Elowah Falls or Upper McCord Falls lying high above the former.  These are great choices. If you choose Nesmith Point, chances are – at least during midweek – you might have the trail to yourself. Both times I have hiked the trail – and one was on a weekend Saturday; it was just me on the trail at the time of my hikes.

FROM THE EAST

Access to the trailhead depends on the direction you come in on I-84; from the east or west. From the east, take the Warrendale exit#37. Proceed on the frontage road until you see a sign for I-84. Turn left and go under the freeway. Left again on NE Frontage Road which is the Old Scenic Highway US 30. The trailhead car park is just under a half mile to the east. To head back east from the trailhead, simply re-enter the eastbound lanes right past the parking lot.

FROM THE WEST

From the west, take exit 38 for Ainsworth State Park.  Exiting, stay to the left coming to a stop sign.  Here, turn left following signs for Dodson and Warrendale. Follow the directions for the Historic US 30 East Road a hundred yards further on – if you continue farther, you are put back on the eastbound I-84.  From here, it is about two miles to the trailhead. When you are finished and you want to return west, simply return the same way you came.

A note about the trailhead parking lot. I have seen many stated this lot is the most burglarized lot in the Gorge, if not beyond. That was certainly the case in the age of DIN-sized stereos.  Today, I have still noted a few cars with broken windows. I have parked here at least a dozen times, and knock on wood, I have yet to experience the unexperienceable. Still, maybe not a good place to stop if you are visiting from a long way away and have lots of gear, suitcases or other packages in the car. Keep the stuff out of sight. Going on one of the trails for an overnighter? Good luck. Sad, but true.

ENDURANCE

The Nesmith Point Trail branches off from the Elowah Trails a few yards past the large water tower – water collected here for the local communities. One sign says the trail goes off for 5.3 miles while another only says 4.8 which is closer to what map apps will give you. My watch gave me a little over 10 miles with a little wandering about on top.  seen some approximate times listed for 6 hours 25 minutes – AllTrails – but I think the time needed lies probably closer to 7 hours – at least for my nearly seven-decade body. As steep as sections go on the way up, they are steep going down. It is easy to slip, especially with fatigue

Beginnings

The first half mile is an approach through underbrush that could present a navigation problem. Like a lot of Gorge trails, this trail could get overgrown quickly. On this particular day I hiked, the vegetation along the trail had been mowed down on each side. After hiking the Franklin Ridge Trail a few days before, this feature was greatly appreciated. Thanks to the local trail volunteers!! The vegetation appeared mowed up to about the 800 feet level. You then get to deal with the occasional salmonberry making use of the open space of the trail, but with a couple of trekking poles, you can see the path fairly clearly for the most par.  Up higher than about 1800 feet, the understory becomes less of a problem.

Most of the initial mile of the trail used to be part of Trail #400, the Gorge Trail which used to run from Angel’s Rest Trailhead in the west to Wyeth Trail #411 near Gorton Creek in the east. That trail exists still in a few places – most memorably as the “return trail” linking Wahkeena and Multnomah Falls at their bases. In many areas, #400 has washed away or the fires have destroyed sections. Here, just before the one-mile mark, a switchback goes off up to the left from where the old #400 crossed over a creek. Whatever crossing was in place is no longer there. The creek shows a main peril of trails in the Gorge, washout.

The Hard Middle

But we are not interested in the Gorge Trail. From the old intersection begins the hard middle section. The first mile only gains a little less than 600 feet of elevation. In the next 1.8 miles of trail, you gain over 2,000 feet of elevation. Now, instead of looking at it as a whole, it seems better psychologically to break the trail into sections. You have three sections of steep switchbacks and four traverses, where you are still gaining elevation, just not as quickly.

SO, IT BEGINS

From the old intersection, you have a long traverse of a little over a half mile where the trail goes around a northern subsidiary ridge of Nesmith Point. This gets you into a rock gulley aiming for the top of the ridge separating the McCord Creek basin from the massive cliffs falling off Nesmith Point to the west and north. Next, a quarter mile of switchbacks going up the center of the gully. Then a traverse over to the cliffs on the right side of the gully. Now, you have six switchbacks which get you up another 500 feet. On the switchbacks, views begin with good looks at Hamilton Mountain and Table Mountain on the other side of the Columbia River in Washington. Mt Adams begins to appear as does Silver Star and Mt. St. Helens.

LAST SET

Now comes another long traverse of another half mile still gaining 500 feet without the turns. A last set of switchbacks focus more on the left side of the gully gaining 300 feet in less than a half mile.

BEYOND THE GULLY

You finally get out of the gully at just under three miles out – 2781 feet – at a small pass, Corky’s Corner.  Another trail used to take off from here dropping into the McChord Creek basin leading down to Upper McChord Creek Falls. That trail doesn’t exist anymore, especially after the fire. From the pass, you can peer out east over the vast acreage of forest burnt in 2017 – McChord Basin suffered greatly.  The switchbacks are mostly over, but you are not there yet!  You still have over a thousand feet of elevation to go.

A quarter-mile climb gains another 300 feet. You finally get up to a plateau where some of the forest survived. Here, you get a small respite where for a little under a half mile, the trail only gains another hundred feet. Then it is back to climbing, though now you are in a forest which did not suffer from the fire. Finally, 4.4 miles out – 3,807 feet high – you reach a point with a couple of signs. One points the way to Nesmith Point – a switchback to the right – while the other announces it is 4.4 miles back to the Yeon Trailhead. 

The Top

Now, only a couple of hundred feet and less than a half mile remains before reaching the top. A few hundred yards gets you up to the old Forest Service road leading off to the south – Palmer Peak and the Bull Run drainage. 

The road makes a final switchback to gain the site of the old fire lookout, now ensconced in trees. There is a viewpoint looking out to the west down the Columbia River. Here, you can see all the way to the downtown towers of Portland. To the right, with clear weather, you can make out the humps of Saddle Mountain near Astoria. Be careful on the edge as the mountain continues to erode into the Gorge below.

Boot paths lead further north – down – but I never saw any better views offered. The forest remains dense up here. One boot path leads up to the USGS marker. You can just glimpse peaks of the north side of Mt. Hood through the trees.

retreat

Too soon, it is time to go back.  Some people like to take another two miles to venture west on the Horseshoe Creek trail. But remember, you have a lot of elevation loss staring you in the face. The trail back is steep and loose in spots. Unlike a lot of trails leading up to viewpoints, you cannot go much faster going down than up. Because of all the effort burned up in the ascent, the descent can seem to take forever. From the bottom, with leftover energy, you have the option of Elowah Falls.

FUTURE OF TRAILS ATOP THE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE

Note that the Forest Service road leading to the old lookout site can take you down to the Horseshoe Creek Trail #425 from which you can connect westward to the trail systems of Larch Mountain and Oneonta Creek. Some people like to take another two miles venturing west on the Horseshoe Creek trail. A good turn-around point is where the booth path known as the Rock of Ages “trail” comes up from Ponytail Falls. The trail continues 1.3 miles to a junction with the Bell Creek Trail. But it is the first two miles where the path gives great views down into the magnificent cliffs running from Nesmith Point past Yeon Mountain to the Rock of Ages. The trail costs only a couple of hundred feet in elevation loss to be regained.

TO THE EAST

The road also connected with the Moffett Creek Trail #430 connecting to the east. Moffett Creek #430, Tanner Butte #401 and Ruckel Creek #405 trails all remain closed at this time because of fire damage. The loss of the Tanner Ridge is a big blow as this trail system allowed one to really get out in the wilderness lying off the south rim of the Columbia River Gorge. The area was not visited much before the fires because of the elevation gain – 4,500 feet and the number of miles needed to explore. Most people used the area to backpack into though. That meant leaving a car overnight usually at the Eagle Creek Trailhead. Who knows when and if the Tanner Creek Trail will ever be rebuilt.

Many of the trails linking the highpoints on the south edge of the Gorge probably were built to link old Forest Service fire lookouts with each other. The old fire lookout trails exist in many other parts of the Cascades. Some of those trails remain in much better condition than what we find here atop the south Gorge. A combination of Bull Run’s far-reaching watershed boundaries and the devastating 2017 fires – there was a smoldering fire in the upper part of the Tanner Creek drainage weeks before the Eagle Creek fire blew up with high dry winds in early September. Most of the Tanner Butte ridge was burnt severely all the way south to Tanner Butte.

WORTH IT?

Always a question you have to ask yourself before setting out on a hike or adventure. Nesmith Point is a hard hike. Not a great first choice for a first hike.  Anti-inflammatories help the recovery if you do choose this one. The views are actually much better now than before, similar to conditions on other trails in the Gorge – Devil’s Rest, Angel’s Rest Trail. Nesmith Point Trail mowed along the edges on the lower parts of the trail makes it more user-friendly without the explosion of understory vegetation following the fires – again, see Devil’s Rest, Angel’s Rest or especially the Franklin Ridge Trail.

While you sweat on the steep trail heading up, it remains fascinating to observe the change in foliage as you quickly change climatic zones. The dense forest on top is almost a relief to the exposed rock gully climb below. Of course, at the time of the fire lookout, the summit would have been stripped bare of trees to allow for better observations. The views are more limited today. But they still remain. Those views – in the rock gully and atop – plus, the conditioning effect make Nesmith Trail worth considering when you want a challenge.  A sunny day makes the effort more valuable. One last note on weather.  Nesmith Point is well-known for hosting high winds. The steep trail can gain in difficulty with wet weather, as well.

EQUIVALENTS

A hike to the top of Nesmith Point is the equivalent of taking on the Empire State Building’s 102 floors a little over three times – up and down – without the $77 charge. Though it is conditioning you are only after, Mount Defiance, further east in the Gorge, offers almost four Empire State Buildings. That equals 4,840 feet with most gained in but three miles of hiking.